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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Don Wilson, Karen Wilson, Alan Bartlett, Lisa Christie, John Christie
Page Views: 462 total, 6/month
Shared By: shelby beardslee on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is pretty fun. Balancy bottom section on positive holds lead past a bolt. After that its a jug hall. If you lead it its probably 5.9 if you TR it its easier becuase you dont have to worry about protecting the flake crux.

Location

This route is 200 feet left of King Otto and left on Don Genaros Crack on a separate buttress. Its in campsite 35 so occupied site rules apply.

Protection

1 bolt and cams to 2 inches. There are anchors with rings on top which can actually be reached if you scramble around back and climb the short 5th class slab behind the anchors (PG13).

Photos

Spear
ca
Spear   ca
What's the climb with the more direct top out? Goes up another 15 feet seems to be 10.a has anchors. Jul 14, 2015
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
FA: Todd Gordon, Don Wilson, Karen Wilson, Alan Bartlett, Lisa Christie, John Christie Aug 23, 2011