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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 790 total, 4/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

You'll find this route 150' or so to the left of "King Otto's Castle". It's an obvious left leaning crack. Your stomach sould be empty before you head up. I had difficulty getting decent pro in to start. A tri-cam finally worked. Back up whatever you place; getting started will get your attention; and it doesn't let up.

Protection

Standard rack with tri-cams

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
very fun crack. good and plentiful pro. btw, the last juggy plate at the top of the crack flexes. didn't feel that on the lead up, but saw while belaying on top, when second pulled on that. pretty key exit hold. careful on the pull Nov 21, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
A great diagonal crack with good jams and lieback moves. I used face features at the crux. Well worth your time. Feb 21, 2012
I soloed the crack about 40ft right of this route thinking it was Don Genaro Crack. Any idea what it is? Felt about 5.8, 5.8+ Nov 28, 2010
great route. The start is a bit run out, but stick with it. A bit stout for the grade. Oct 26, 2005
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
 
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
 
There is a nice "ledge" about 2/3 of the way up. However, it isn't as big as it looks from the ground even though it will give you a break. A bomber belay can be built at the top. I liked this route a lot. Kevin Currigan Feb 9, 2004