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Early Access
Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route
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Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Aero-Book T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freak Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Must'a Been High T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rincon Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wendego T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93435, -105.28993 |
| FA: | Scott Woodruff and Chris Peisker, 1978? |
| Page Views: | 1,667 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 12, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This seldom climbed route has a 1-star start with a 3-star finish. Two stars all in all, I suppose.
This climb starts on the upper ledge of Rincon, above the crag's namesake climb. It takes the large, left-facing dihedral at the right side of the massive inset, just right of the climb Bat's Ass Dihedral.
Up and left of the finish of Rincon one can find a huge rockhouse. The left side has a right-facing corner with a huge, wedged flake (Bat's Ass Dihedral) and the right side has a left-facing corner with a tree at the base (Kangaroo Tail). Kangaroo Tail is just a few feet left of Cuban Bluegrass, and Ventura Highway is just to the right of Cuban Bluegrass.
Set a belay at the base of the smaller pine near the base of the corner so that if you take a tumble you can't drag you and your partner off the ledge for a 250' ride to the base of the wall. Get in to the corner and make a few odd moves to clasp a 12" square chock, set well into the small inset, maybe 8' up the route. Perhaps you can fiddle in a small ballnut or RP from a stance on this, but I thought it was bad gear. One move more will get you to a so-so baby Alien, then another to a stopper. Until you are pretty high up, a ground fall seems possible from crux moves (5.9+) Once past this initial section, the rock is clean and solid and the gear is good. Sink a few good cams (hand-sized) in the crack in the corner and move up to near the roof. Use a long sling on the final gear here to avoid drag- you will go pretty far right in a moment (though it's not obvious now). Just before the roof stem out right around the arete and up (2nd crux, 5.9) to a good under-cling on a solid flake. Set gear with a long runner and go up and slightly right up and over the top (3rd crux, 5.9). Belay from a tree back and left, not the skinny thing in front of you.
Walk off to the far left, passing the 'Over the Hill' walk-off on the way down. Before passing Over The Hill, you will see an attractive, right-facing corner going up one more tier. This is a good route called Brevitata (11c). It's fun & has a fixed pin at the crux, and is probably over-graded.
Location
Up on the upper tier of Rincon Wall, on top of and further left the top of the Rincon Route. This is the left-facing dihedral to a roof between the 'Routes Bat's Ass Dihedral' and 'Cuban Bluegrass.'
Protection
Runout at the bottom to get established on a so-so chock-stone (be gentle!) and then a micronut to a tiny Alien or TCU before getting up and onto a good ledge with good rock and good pro. A groundfall might be a reality for the first few body lengths, and it would be a really bad place for it.
Rack: RPs, maybe a small ball-nut or two, and then some tiny and medium Aliens, then a #1 and #2 Camalot. The top belay is from a good tree up and left.
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