Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Dalke and Ament, early 1960's. FFA: later by others|
|Page Views:||437 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 19, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Climb in from the right on so-so holds, coming around a corner on a crack (1.5" cam, long sling) and up onto some side-pulls just above the lowest of some pin-scars in the broken shallow cracks 2' right of the red right-facing dihedral. You can place a stopper or small cam (long sling) once your feet are established. Climb up this corner to its top, placing gear when possible (long slings) to a horizontal band above it and start moving left. The feet are crumbly. Some gear (long slings) can be placed near a bulge that can be pinched between the thighs to create a good stance on this bulging traverse through poor rock. Climb up to a stance in a wide crack (no good gear) before a set of two slots. This is NOT a [good] belay.
Continue up the left slot via a squeeze and fist jams, thinning to hands on OK gear (3.5" cams and down) or up the right slot (funky face and jams) and build a belay up above on stoppers and smaller cams.
To finish, summit to the East to an eye-bolt at the Eastern edge of the First Pinnacle, or scramble down the ridge to the West (easy 4th class).