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Routes in The Amphitheater

2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Inset, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Cameron Burns, Benny Bach, Winter 1986
Page Views: 89 total · 1/month
Shared By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Apr 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


A straightforward route up a groove and a flake.


This route lies in the southern part of the Amp. If standing, looking into the Amp, it's on yer left. And there is absolutely no metal to make it stand out.


Some cams.


- No Photos -
Cameron, I am unclear as to where this route is. Can you be a bit more specific? What route is it near? I am unsure that this is indeed a new route, but if it is, there may still be time to include it in the new Flatirons guidebook. Apr 17, 2008
This route, I believe from our exchanges, was later written up as Off Fence, in Rossiter, 1999.
Our first ascent of it was recorded in Climbing magazine No. 101, April 1987, p. 16. (I got the date of our ascent wrong in my original posting but have corrected here.) Next time I'm down I'll try and confirm with an image. Best, Cam (old fart) Oh yeah, if you actually have Climbing No. 101 lying around, take a look at the advertisement on p. 30 of the chick in the Hardman t-shirt. That was my company, and that woman is now my wife. Pretty funny, huh? May 9, 2008
Cam - through our emails, I'm positive your route is "Off Fence" and I've dug through ALL the old guidebooks and there is no mention of your route. I'm going to talk to Richard about it, but seeing how there's no FA info accredited to Off Fence in his book, and all the likely "old timers" in the know don't seem to know anything about the route, you may indeed have done the FA. Hard to say with an area such as the Amphitheater, but I'll talk to a few more people including Pat Ament and get back to you. May 9, 2008
Jason, thanks. No big deal. I've done hundreds and hundreds of routes I've never reported, from Montana to Idaho to Colorado to NM to Arizona. I guess MProject makes it easier to report them because it's all in one spot. May 10, 2008
Cam - I checked out that ad, nice! May 10, 2008
...yeah, childish but fun...... May 13, 2008
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
Jason are you sure this route is where it's pictured in your new guidebook (pg.31 #80)? Starts overhanging on jugs outside the amphitheater next to the trail with a big log/fence post running underneath it? I only bouldered the first few moves but didn't see any real gear. Might be better with just a pad or maybe I'm just totally in the wrong spot? Is there a good piece up higher? Sep 2, 2009
Yes, this route is essentially a boulder problem without gear. It sounds like you started in the right spot (jug overhang right off the trail). Once you can stand up on the slab, it's a lichenous runout to the ridge without gear at about 40ftish. I remember there being a #1 Camalot placement near the start, but that wouldn't help much once you got going on the slab (5.5 R/X). I'd bring a pad and solo it over racking up personally as once you're at the 15ft mark, the hard part is over. There isn't another good piece until you're off the slab. Sep 3, 2009

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