Avg: 1.8 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)|
|Page Views:||2,135 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Sofranko on Sep 4, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Begin just inside the Amphitheatre on the right. T-Zero is the first small summit on the right. Climb the west face of T-Zero via a nice (and obvious, and short) finger crack and a cool flake to the summit. This is on the inside east face of the amphitheatre.
Descend by carefully downclimbing the 4th class north ridge, then stepping back west into the Amphitheatre.
Rossiter calls this route Finger Crack.
Per Tony B:
Well, step into the Gregory Canyon Amphitheatre, and the first somewhat large rock on the right (East) is T-Zero. There is an obvious finger crack on the left side of this which becomes a left-facing corner at the top. There are many pin scars on the bottom section. Despite the traditional 5.5 grade, short people will have a hard time getting started (5.7?) and then from there it's big moves on big holds... [secure], but 5.5??? The sequence is more physical then most 5.5s.
To descend, walk to the North end, drop off the East side, then scramble North to the ground (5.2).
Eds. this was submitted as two different named routes, partly due to confusion in guidebooks. They are combined here to avoid further confusion.
Per Tony B: a few stoppers, small tricams or TCUs plus one large cam for the exit moves. (3-4")
The TR up to can be set from above with gear or some cordelette/webbing around features.