Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 202 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris Plesko on Jul 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was fun and steep compared to many other Flatirons climbs. The lichen streak is cool looking, and the holds are interesting and mostly on sound rock. Too bad it's not all bulletproof. Start making big moves off the ground to good but not always great pockets, slopers, and sidepulls. Work up on good feet and long reaches to holds that seem to appear where you need them. Keep moving unless you find a hold you can shake out on as the pump will build. At half height, there is a big rest, then continue to crank upwards in similar style to the top. Overall, it felt like a series of boulder problems separated by okay to great rests.

If this climb was sport bolted, I'm sure it would see traffic, but perhaps some of the holds wouldn't survive that many people. It is worth the effort to setup the top rope if you want to climb something a little steeper.

Location

Start just to the right of the West Bench Dihedral. Head up through the green lichen streak to the left of South Face Direct.

We built a top rope anchor at the first BIG notch in the ridge and backed it up with a good cam closer to the bolt anchors. Lead or scramble up the West Ridge of the 1st Pinnacle to get there.

Protection

Very little to no pro without traversing into the already R/X South Face Direct. We TR'd this route using a large nut, a #2 Camalot, and a #3 Camalot. Long slings are necessary. Make sure you are putting gear in good rock up top. When finished, you can walk 10 feet east and rap 110 feet from good bolts or scramble down West Ridge (exposed 4th class).

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