Avg: 0.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m)|
|FA:||Unknown to me|
|Page Views:||1,077 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 29, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Both I and my partner laughed our butts off when we discovered that the weird, blind crux hold was in fact, a "piece of shit" as we passed it. Petrified or not, it was amusing to be dangling your weight from a polished pile of bird-crap.
Approach Via the 'express' trail to the North side of the First Pinnacle. Perhaps 8 meters to the right of the obvious "NE Chimney" route at the left edge of the !st Pinnacle, a strange line of features and pockets climbs up for 8 meters, bumps left and up (crux, decent pro = large cam in a pocket) past the 'pile' hold, and up and right, runout in odd grooves and face moves. Once on a good ledge, bump left and continue up to the summit on easier terrain, with some pro. You will encounter 2 modern bolts to belay on, just west of the true summit.
You can TR this with a top belay, or *perhaps* with a 70m rope.
Rap to the East from an old eye bolt with a 60m rope. (50 PROBABLY OK, have not tried it), or scramble off West and North.