Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Eubanks, Vandiver, 1946. FFA: Dalke, Ament, 1960
Page Views: 2,288 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Good route for advanced leaders who happen to come by here. The moves are good and interesting, but there is not much in the line of protection in a few spots. The moves might be a little hard to reverse, so confidence is key.

On the S. Face of the First pinnacle, in the amphitheatre proper, there is a left-slanting line of chalked up flakes, edges, seams, and pockets. At just above mid-face the system has a short, left-facing, left-leaning corner, about 10 feet tall.

Climb this system to the top of the corner and then more or less straight upward to the top, where you can belay from fixed anchors.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.

Protection

Perhaps a few tricams, a few stoppers, a large-hands cam and a few long slings for slinging knobs. I didn't place any myself, but it looked like I could have fiddled in at least the above.

The route is definitely rated S and does have some questionable holds, although these can be avoided with little increase in route difficulty. If you don't normally on-sight solo 5.9, perhaps choose another route to lead and TR this climb.

Photos

Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
Fun, long toprope. #4 Camalot made for a good directional. May 2, 2006
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.9 R
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.9 R
This is a very serious lead and you'll most certainly get hurt if you blow it. Micro cams are quite useful for the first half of the route and most of the gear is good when you can get it. Oct 29, 2007
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
Fun TR. Easy to get to the anchors from the west. Aug 17, 2008
Definitely a worthy, long toprope. If you're like me and aren't quite awesome enough to make the final move up the corner, you can vary to the right across a bulge and head up from there... makes it more like a 5.8. Jan 28, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
The anchor above this was replaced with 6" Fixe glue-ins with double rings and was moved to better rock. The old anchor was in a detached block, and the studs were very loose.
Thanks to Greg Barnes and the ASCA. Sep 14, 2017
Said new double Fixe fixed-glue-in anchor is in the notch to the east of the notch where the Inside South Face tops out. I led ISF in 1973 and tried unsuccessfully to use said anchor to toprope it yesterday.

Edit: To clarify, this bolted anchor is NOT where USD finishes. Pics on this page show the route crossing the blank face between ISF and the anchor. The route doesn't cross this blank face. Furthermore, to toprope ISF from said anchor, you have to place a directional far to the left of the anchor, or risk an injury-causing swing. The directional would then cause injury to the rope. Feb 8, 2018
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9+ R
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9+ R
Rapping off the "new" anchor without a directional (as we did) puts the rope to the right of the route described on this page. So we did two TR variations to the right that were more like 5.10 and had some good, steep climbing that led straight up to the anchors. Our 70m rope had plenty of extra, but I didn't measure it to confirm that a 60m would reach the ground. Maybe. Dec 20, 2018