Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Type: | Trad, TR, 94 ft (28 m) |
FA: | Eubanks, Vandiver, 1946. FFA: Dalke, Ament, 1960 |
Page Views: | 3,682 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 5, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Good route for advanced leaders who happen to come by here. The moves are good and interesting, but there is not much in the line of protection in a few spots. The moves might be a little hard to reverse, so confidence is key.
On the S. Face of the First pinnacle, in the amphitheatre proper, there is a left-slanting line of chalked up flakes, edges, seams, and pockets. At just above mid-face the system has a short, left-facing, left-leaning corner, about 10 feet tall.
Climb this system to the top of the corner and then more or less straight upward to the top, where you can belay from fixed anchors.
Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.
On the S. Face of the First pinnacle, in the amphitheatre proper, there is a left-slanting line of chalked up flakes, edges, seams, and pockets. At just above mid-face the system has a short, left-facing, left-leaning corner, about 10 feet tall.
Climb this system to the top of the corner and then more or less straight upward to the top, where you can belay from fixed anchors.
Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.
Protection
Perhaps a few tricams, a few stoppers, a large-hands cam and a few long slings for slinging knobs. I didn't place any myself, but it looked like I could have fiddled in at least the above.
The route is definitely rated S and does have some questionable holds, although these can be avoided with little increase in route difficulty. If you don't normally on-sight solo 5.9, perhaps choose another route to lead and TR this climb.
The route is definitely rated S and does have some questionable holds, although these can be avoided with little increase in route difficulty. If you don't normally on-sight solo 5.9, perhaps choose another route to lead and TR this climb.
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