Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown to me
Page Views: 156 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Unlike its neighbors, this is probably NOT a good route to tow a beginner up on. The traverse is not so well protected and requires some experience to negotiate & protect.

Climb the East bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinacle and the East bench and then move as far right as possible between the East Bench and the First Pinacle. Alternatively, start from the North side in the NE Chimney. In either case, continue to move way out right until you have passed below a 3 meter tall juniper, then move up into a bomb-bay inset, and up into the left side of this and past the tree's right side, into the next crack right of the tree, following this to the top.

It's a so-so pitch, and the traverse is seldom done and not as clean as it's neighbors to the left. It's not great for the beginning 5.6 leader or follower.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping East from the fixed anchor up top.

Protection

A standard set of cams and nuts + some 2' slings to avoid drag.

Would be hard to TR I imagine, due to the starting position and the tree you pass under.

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