Avg: 0 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Ament and Dalke, early 60's?|
|Page Views:||603 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 19, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Reach the eye-bolt at the top of the West Bench, as accessed from any of the interior routes below it or from a scramble from the outer wall up to it. Set a belay here, and climb out and left for some distance passing a horizontal hand-crack, and proceeding inward past a fixed aluminum pin (with broken eyelets) and into a dark red, right-facing corner with trashy rock and a small ledge to stand on.
Climb up this corner until it ends, then work up and left onto a slab and onto the summit, to an eye-bolt belay.
If you are feeling frisky, from the top of the dihedral, you can continue directly upward through a bulge with a sloper, a few tiny edges and a small-downward pointing flake for holds. This felt like solid 5.10 and is certainly a dangerous fall potential- I did this on TR and my partner subsequently aborted a similar attempt, siting the noisy flake as his cause for that.
The route has some OK moves, but as a lead it's a bomb- too much stress over bad rock. Maybe 1 star as a TR.