All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Gregory Canyon… > Amphitheater

The Red Gully

Name: The Red Gully
Rating: 0.0

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R

Routes in The Amphitheater

	2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Countdown V3 6A
	D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Inset, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Juniper Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	P.S. I'm Blonde T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
	Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
	West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X

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Type:	Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	39.9958, -105.2929
FA:	Ament and Dalke, early 60's?
Page Views:	1,089 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Jul 19, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:

Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>

Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

The crux of this route is not breaking off the holds...
Reach the eye-bolt at the top of the West Bench, as accessed from any of the interior routes below it or from a scramble from the outer wall up to it. Set a belay here, and climb out and left for some distance passing a horizontal hand-crack, and proceeding inward past a fixed aluminum pin (with broken eyelets) and into a dark red, right-facing corner with trashy rock and a small ledge to stand on.
Climb up this corner until it ends, then work up and left onto a slab and onto the summit, to an eye-bolt belay.
If you are feeling frisky, from the top of the dihedral, you can continue directly upward through a bulge with a sloper, a few tiny edges and a small-downward pointing flake for holds. This felt like solid 5.10 and is certainly a dangerous fall potential- I did this on TR and my partner subsequently aborted a similar attempt, siting the noisy flake as his cause for that.

The route has some OK moves, but as a lead it's a bomb- too much stress over bad rock. Maybe 1 star as a TR.

Location

This route is on the upper half of the inside East-facing side of the West Wall of the amphitheatre. It climbs the trashy red dihedral that starts level with the top of the notch on the West Bench.