Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,660 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Sep 10, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route follows the obvious crack system up the inside of the Amphitheatre to the West bench. To begin, start near the inside western corner and locate the large crack system. (It starts just below the dihedral) Follow the line up through ledges and chimneys to the West bench. This would make a good beginner's lead as it is well protected for a flatirons route. Pat Ament rates this climb 4th class but I would disagree with this rating if you start in the crack and follow it the whole way. (Perhaps this is just an old-school rating)

Protection

Passive pro is sufficent for protecting the climb. Make the anchor in the alcove where the climb tops out. Long slings help (to thread boulders)

Photos

Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
5.2
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
5.2
I think the route described here is in Rossiter's Flatirons guide (Falcon) as "Standard Inside East Face" (he calls it 4th Class). It would protect very well with lots of rests.

The Dihedral route is not 5.1, though probably not harder than 5.4 and offers good jams and stems directly up the dihedral formed with the junction of the first and second pinnacles. Aug 3, 2008
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
5.2
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
5.2
Nice climb, especially for beginners (leaders and seconds). See Jason Haas guidebook for pics and description. Top rope anchors require a bit of thinking as its a jumble of unconnected blocks. There is an eyebolt for the slot, but its positioning is not great for this climb. Aug 23, 2009