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Routes in The Amphitheater

2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Inset, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,695 total, 19/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 4, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

From the inside of the Amphitheatre, there is an obvious roof and slot on the wall below the West Bench.

Climb up to the slot, get into it, and grunt your way up a few moves until you can exit onto the face. Climb the face more or less straight up to a steep final headwall. Climb the obvious crux finger crack for a few moves to the West Bench.

Rossiter calls this route, Slot.

Protection

SR.

Wasp Warning!

Per Sam W: for those sensitive, there are wasps on this route.
Sam W  
WASP WARNING! I was here this morning (8/25/17) and didn't notice the foot placement at about the belayer's eye level is home to a wasp nest (they live inside a thin, vertical crack). I got stung on the ankle, but thanks to a fast belayer, I got down quickly and then lowered from above to retrieve the one nut I had placed. The wasps are actually not too bad so long as you keep a few feet away from their nest, but you should know where the nest is. Aug 25, 2017
Matt Bentley
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Matt Bentley   Boulder, CO
  5.6
This a great route with nice diversity. The slot has some nice features and holds, and the chimney changes to some fat pinches, then some typical Flatirons slabby stuff near the top. It seems like a 5.6+ or 5.7 to me, but that's mostly based on the slabby moves toward the top.

A personal favorite hold was the nice finger pocket up on the slabby part around the last 1/3rd of the route!

There's a great TR point at the top of the route (accessible from the climbing express trail that wraps around the West of the Amphitheatre): a GIANT eyebolt, and a huge boulder to wrap with sling or cord. I dig redundancy, so I used both the single eyebolt and a cordelette wrapped around the boulder on top, equalized, and extended over the edge to eliminate rope drag.

This is the best moderate route that I've done in the Amphitheatre area. I'll definitely be coming back. Mar 7, 2017
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
Andres Fernandez   Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
Great route. A good solid 5.6 for the slot part, which seems about 1/2 the route.

When you get to the top 3rd of the route on the final face, I considered some moves 5.7. You can go further right and do the 5.5/5.6 variation.

Good protection for 1st half. More inexperienced leaders for face climbing might find it harder to place protection. Mar 12, 2016
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Fun route, a good (if awkward) lead to learn on. Good gear pushing through the crux slot and then good, but sometimes spaced over easy ground, gear to the top. The final fingercrack is also quite a treat! If you're just starting out, get on this route! Apr 23, 2013
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
5.6
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
5.6
Yep, these pics are not the slot. Body width chimney. Aug 23, 2009
Great spot for teaching folks the ropes. Jul 30, 2007
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.7
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.7
The description here is of Rossiter's "Slot". Both of the pictures posted here are NOT of "Slot" and ARE of "Direct West Bench". May 2, 2006
The description here seems to be for "Slot", Direct West Bench is five feet right of that route and the crux is a left-angling crack about 25 feet off the deck. Jun 28, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
You don't have to climb and thrutch through the slot. Grab the edge and climb gracefully out on positive hands and feet until the face holds appear on your left. Oct 7, 2002