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Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench]

5.6, Trad,  Avg: 2.2 from 43 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Gregory Canyon… > Amphitheater
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

From the inside of the Amphitheatre, there is an obvious roof and slot on the wall below the West Bench.

Climb up to the slot, get into it, and grunt your way up a few moves until you can exit onto the face. Climb the face more or less straight up to a steep final headwall. Climb the obvious crux finger crack for a few moves to the West Bench.

Rossiter calls this route, Slot.

Protection

SR.

Wasp Warning!

Per Sam W: for those sensitive, there are wasps on this route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

2nd Pinnacle East Face<br>
R->L:<br>
[[West Bench Dihedral, 5.4]]105758098.<br>
[[Standard Inside East Face, 5.1]]106653684.<br>
[[Direct West Bench, 5.7]]105752344.<br>
[[Slot, 5.6]]105751900.<br>
[[Roof, 5.12c R]]105842681.<br>
[[The Inset, 5.4]]106559867.<br>
[[Upper East Face, 5.7]]106417698.<br>
[[Red Gully, 5.10a R]]105842625.
[Hide Photo] 2nd Pinnacle East Face R->L: West Bench Dihedral, 5.4. Standard Inside East Face, 5.1. Direct West Bench, 5.7. Slot, 5.6. Roof, 5.12c R. The Inset, 5.4. Upper East Face, 5.7. Red Gully,…
The Inset, 5.4.
[Hide Photo] The Inset, 5.4.
Getting into the slot.
[Hide Photo] Getting into the slot.
Slot route, out on the face.
[Hide Photo] Slot route, out on the face.
Pulling out of the slot onto the face.
[Hide Photo] Pulling out of the slot onto the face.
Obligatory butt shot.  Thor on Slot.
[Hide Photo] Obligatory butt shot. Thor on Slot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] You don't have to climb and thrutch through the slot. Grab the edge and climb gracefully out on positive hands and feet until the face holds appear on your left. Oct 7, 2002
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] The description here seems to be for "Slot", Direct West Bench is five feet right of that route and the crux is a left-angling crack about 25 feet off the deck. Jun 28, 2003
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The description here is of Rossiter's "Slot". Both of the pictures posted here are NOT of "Slot" and ARE of "Direct West Bench". May 2, 2006
[Hide Comment] Great spot for teaching folks the ropes. Jul 30, 2007
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
5.6
[Hide Comment] Yep, these pics are not the slot. Body width chimney. Aug 23, 2009
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Fun route, a good (if awkward) lead to learn on. Good gear pushing through the crux slot and then good, but sometimes spaced over easy ground, gear to the top. The final fingercrack is also quite a treat! If you're just starting out, get on this route! Apr 23, 2013
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, Colorado
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Great route. A good solid 5.6 for the slot part, which seems about 1/2 the route.

When you get to the top 3rd of the route on the final face, I considered some moves 5.7. You can go further right and do the 5.5/5.6 variation.

Good protection for 1st half. More inexperienced leaders for face climbing might find it harder to place protection. Mar 12, 2016
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This a great route with nice diversity. The slot has some nice features and holds, and the chimney changes to some fat pinches, then some typical Flatirons slabby stuff near the top. It seems like a 5.6+ or 5.7 to me, but that's mostly based on the slabby moves toward the top.

A personal favorite hold was the nice finger pocket up on the slabby part around the last 1/3rd of the route!

There's a great TR point at the top of the route (accessible from the climbing express trail that wraps around the West of the Amphitheatre): a GIANT eyebolt, and a huge boulder to wrap with sling or cord. I dig redundancy, so I used both the single eyebolt and a cordelette wrapped around the boulder on top, equalized, and extended over the edge to eliminate rope drag.

This is the best moderate route that I've done in the Amphitheatre area. I'll definitely be coming back. Mar 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] WASP WARNING! I was here this morning (8/25/17) and didn't notice the foot placement at about the belayer's eye level is home to a wasp nest (they live inside a thin, vertical crack). I got stung on the ankle, but thanks to a fast belayer, I got down quickly and then lowered from above to retrieve the one nut I had placed. The wasps are actually not too bad so long as you keep a few feet away from their nest, but you should know where the nest is. Aug 25, 2017
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I remember liking this route in 1975, and it's still fun. It's a 7-ft extension from eyebolt to get slings over the front edge, although that edge has a smooth, rounded segment where rope drag shouldn't be too bad. No wasps in December. Dec 20, 2018