Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: S. Ilg & R. Rossiter, '88
Page Views: 987 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A strange and interesting climb, and pretty good for the venue, but a little too short.

Approach Via the ampetheatre trail or the 'express trail' and get yourself to the Northwest side of the outside of the ampetheatre. You may locate the bolted line "Red Wall" first, then work your way West (right) along the north facing features to the Ginseng Pillar, the last significant feature before going to the 3rd Pinacle ridge.

The Ginseng Pillar has 2 lines that have bolts, ont he left is Siberian North Face, on the Right is Now and Zen. Both are overgraded as published and are more like 5.10a.

Now and Zen actually starts on the nice west-side-slab of the NW arete of the Ginsing Pilalr, protecting in a few horizontals before turning the corner left onto the north face and clipping a bolt, then heading up the wall above said bolt. The climbing is mostly solid and fun. Getting to the botl may be heady, but careful protection of the horizontal before the move (large cams) will help. Watch for loose flakes in the crack and protect where it is good.

Scramble off to the East and down a good chimney/gully.

Protection

A set of cams to 4" and a draw for the lone bolt. Heady at your limit, but not dangerous if you know how to place good gear in a horizontal. THe bolt protects the crux.

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