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Routes in The Amphitheater

2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Inset, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: S. Ilg & R. Rossiter, '88
Page Views: 912 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A strange and interesting climb, and pretty good for the venue, but a little too short.

Approach Via the ampetheatre trail or the 'express trail' and get yourself to the Northwest side of the outside of the ampetheatre. You may locate the bolted line "Red Wall" first, then work your way West (right) along the north facing features to the Ginseng Pillar, the last significant feature before going to the 3rd Pinacle ridge.

The Ginseng Pillar has 2 lines that have bolts, ont he left is Siberian North Face, on the Right is Now and Zen. Both are overgraded as published and are more like 5.10a.

Now and Zen actually starts on the nice west-side-slab of the NW arete of the Ginsing Pilalr, protecting in a few horizontals before turning the corner left onto the north face and clipping a bolt, then heading up the wall above said bolt. The climbing is mostly solid and fun. Getting to the botl may be heady, but careful protection of the horizontal before the move (large cams) will help. Watch for loose flakes in the crack and protect where it is good.

Scramble off to the East and down a good chimney/gully.

Protection

A set of cams to 4" and a draw for the lone bolt. Heady at your limit, but not dangerous if you know how to place good gear in a horizontal. THe bolt protects the crux.

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