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Routes in The Amphitheater

2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Inset, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: Larry Dalke, 1960's ?
Page Views: 579 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an odd route. Although rated "5.9+" in Rossiter's book, me mentions that 'the left side of this roof is quite hard, and the middle is a lot harder than that.' (paraphrased)
Going out left of the roof felt like 5.10 and the middle is at least middle 5.12, or harder... and crumbing. But I've never been able to climb it through the center, nor has anyone I've seen or talked to about it.
Climb up under the roof, and make a gut-buster move to get established on sloping underclings. Climb up and left under the roof on small sloping holds with bad feet (5.10?) or attempt to climb through the center of the roof on a few small crimps and up into the scoop, then to a pinch-undercling. I suspect this is 5.13 in its present state, but I can't string the moves together and never have, so I can't say for sure. Anyone done it direct? How?

Location

On the East-facing wall of the West Bench inside the amphitheatre, just left of the popular West Bench TR's, there is a rounded roof, 4 meters off of the ground. Below it there are a few sloping underclings, left of it there is a single side-pull and a few slopers, and above it in the center, a shallow, scoop of rock with a crumbing crimp in the bottom. This is the Roof.

Protection

The protection is poor to naught at the crux, and you'd be semi-horizontal at that point, 4-5 meters off of the ground. I've only attempted it on TR. TR is from the eye bolt at the notch of the West Bench and some 2" gear on long slings.

Photos

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