Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: Larry Dalke, 1960's ?
Page Views: 686 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an odd route. Although rated "5.9+" in Rossiter's book, me mentions that 'the left side of this roof is quite hard, and the middle is a lot harder than that.' (paraphrased)
Going out left of the roof felt like 5.10 and the middle is at least middle 5.12, or harder... and crumbing. But I've never been able to climb it through the center, nor has anyone I've seen or talked to about it.
Climb up under the roof, and make a gut-buster move to get established on sloping underclings. Climb up and left under the roof on small sloping holds with bad feet (5.10?) or attempt to climb through the center of the roof on a few small crimps and up into the scoop, then to a pinch-undercling. I suspect this is 5.13 in its present state, but I can't string the moves together and never have, so I can't say for sure. Anyone done it direct? How?

Location

On the East-facing wall of the West Bench inside the amphitheatre, just left of the popular West Bench TR's, there is a rounded roof, 4 meters off of the ground. Below it there are a few sloping underclings, left of it there is a single side-pull and a few slopers, and above it in the center, a shallow, scoop of rock with a crumbing crimp in the bottom. This is the Roof.

Protection

The protection is poor to naught at the crux, and you'd be semi-horizontal at that point, 4-5 meters off of the ground. I've only attempted it on TR. TR is from the eye bolt at the notch of the West Bench and some 2" gear on long slings.

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