Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,034 total · 4/month
Shared By: George Bell on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is probably the most unique route in the Amphitheater area. It is one of the longest, and it's zig-zag nature discourages top ropers and can generate mammoth rope drag. It can be done in 3 short pitches or 2 pitches (described here).

The first pitch is easily identified as it climbs right behind a tall pine tree that leans toward and nearly touches the east face. This tree is about 50-75' south of the West Bench area.

P1: Begin about 15' north (right) of the tree, and hand traverse left, following a crack to the tree. Tunnel between the tree and cliff onto a large ledge covered with pine needles (easy). Place a stopper and discipher the moves straight up (crux). The climbing above is complicated by several tree branches that are close to the face. I worked up and left (easier), then traversed horizontally north (right) above the branches. There is almost no pro in this section, although you can tie off a tree branch for comic effect.

At this point you are only about 50' above your belayer (wave). Belay here if the rope drag is heinous, or continue traversing north to a left facing flake (visible from the ground), place your #4 Camalot, and head up this, then wander up and right (5.5 s) to a belay at a red, north facing corner. This corner is only about 50' south of the eye bolt on the West Bench (and can be reached from there if you only want to do the second pitch).

P2: From the red corner, move back left and climb the face (5.7 s), then up some rounded bulges above the corner. Traverse right below the final overhang and strain up to the summit under the rope drag. According to Rossiter you can also tackle the final overhang directly at 5.9.

Protection

Standard rack, a #4 Camalot will come in handy in one spot (see description). Several placements are in pin scars, Aliens work nicely for this.

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