Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown to me
Page Views: 1,390 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

An excellent first climb, and pretty safe/fun, provided you don't bang your head on an overhead chockstone...

This climb is approached from the Amphitheatre Express Trail and is a left/East- facing chimney. It divides the tall North Face fo the First Pinnacle from the Shorter North Face of the East Bench.

Climb the Chimney/Dihedral past multiple squirms and stems around chocks to the top. You can anchor there or continue to the top of the FIrst Pinnacle via the slightly harder SE Arete.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping East from the fixed anchor up top of the SE Arete.

Protection

A standard set of cams and nuts + some 2' slings to avoid drag. A few large pieces might be good, or some tied-off chock stones.

Photos

John M Brooks
Niwot, CO
  5.3
John M Brooks   Niwot, CO
  5.3
First chockstone made me nervous (really plans on staying there?). Did come across giant loose boulder at top. Rating 5.3 because of nice rest stops, but move through slot above cave really tough. First tried stemming on left side, but had better luck going right up the inside face on the right. Had to haul up my pack and rack from the cave (could not fit thru slot). Great views into the amphitheater and on top of East Bench. Downclimbed back to eyebolt and rapped (left backup sling). Jul 1, 2007
Taylor Rose
Lakewood, CO
Taylor Rose   Lakewood, CO
Not recommended for new leaders. This route is certainly in the NO FALL category. The gear was mostly slung chockstones, and the crux is only protected by a small nut.

That being said, this was a hell of an adventure, and I would highly recommend it for those seeking some spice. Aug 17, 2013
Sam W  
There are two sections where you have to deal with a large chockstone. I protected the upper one by placing a BD #5 cam in the crack above me and moving onto the outside right face for two moves. Big pro definitely makes the upper section go smoother. Great beginner route. Jul 23, 2017