Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,917 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Begin this route from the top of the East Bench (see East Bench Dihedral.) The First Pinnacle forms the northern inside wall of the Amphitheatre.

An old bolt will be evident when looking at the steep face leading up to the summit of the First Pinnacle. Step across the chimney and make a few committing moves up a short pillar. Clip the bolt, and head up the obvious scoop to the summit. I started on jugs to the right, then moved left a bit, but whatever works. Tingly exposure beneath your heels... This would be a 3 star route, but it's only 30 feet long.

Descend to the West Bench via the 4th class West Ridge, or rappel (2 ropes?)

Rossiter calls this route the Southeast Arete.

Per Tony B: this is a good route for taking beginners on. Climb the East Bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East Bench. Stem up and right to reach the broad groove which faces SW. Climb up and into this, clipping a single bolt on the way to the top.

(Edit) The old rusted anchor and has been replaced.

It's a nice pitch, and is not too much independent climbing, but still has exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.

Eds. This is two submissions onto the original submission's page to avoid confusion.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack, plus one quickdraw.

Per Tony B: a few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes, and 1 QD for clipping a nasty, old bolt.

Photos

Danny
  5.5
Danny  
  5.5
This route is pretty nice combined with the dihedral route. The description mentions a "nasty old bolt". I second that. This bolt is pretty ugly and rusted. However, there is good pro for most of it. Also, the slings on the east bench seemed to be pretty sun baked and old. Rapping off the big bolt at the far east end of the chimney might be safer. Jun 2, 2004
Not the longest line here but the most spectacular. Watch somebody do this from the the second pinnacle. It's longer than it sounds because it's P2 of a link-up. Jun 12, 2004
Rodger Raubach  
  5.3
A very worthwhile climb for a n00b. Definitely gives a beginner a taste of exposure. Apr 30, 2011
Wayne DENSMORE
Superior, CO
Wayne DENSMORE   Superior, CO
The bolt was replaced last year. I was with Ron Olsen who actually replaced it, and the old one was a 1 inch long, 1/4 inch bolt! Jun 25, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
  5.3
Looking back over the years, this may have been my first roped climb! That was April,1959! Oct 15, 2012
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
mountainproject.com/v/first…

Isn't this the same route? Jun 23, 2015
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.4
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.4
A nostalgic repeat of one of my first climbs from 47 years ago. Linked E Bench Dihedral with direct line up left wall of its upper chimney to get on the SE Face of 1st Pinnacle. A 70m rope easily allows a single-rope rap down the south face of 1st Pinnacle from the big eye bolt at the top. Toproping from this eye bolt can have heinous rope drag, so long extension slings are recommended. New(ish), modern 2-bolt anchor with chains are about 25 ft west for alternate rap or toproping the south face. A 60m rope MIGHT make it to ground from this 2-bolt anchor, but knot the rope ends, and be prepared to downclimb off the ledge/ramp at the bottom. Dec 20, 2018