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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
Page Views: 259 total · 2/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is actually a 20-foot variation finish to Crack Love II; and a good one it is. Climb Crack Love II to the roof where the main route goes offwidth and fist. Pull 5 feet left beneath the roof and place gear, then make a very strenuous move to clear the roof and get established in the crack above (crux). Good hand and finger jams continue to the top of the wall and the anchor for Crack Love II.

It must be noted that Bruno Hache busted his butt cleaning this system and is commended and thanked for his hard work and contribution to the routes of Avalon.

Location

This route is located on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. Follow the excellent trail beneath the Northeast Face to its low point beneath Ancient Light. Continue up the slope past two switchbacks to the obvious alcove and V-slot of Crack Love. Crack Love II/III is the crack system on the right.

Protection

Gear only from 0.4 inches to 2.5 inches.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
I thought this was easier than the given rating. We came in from Crack Love, not Crack Love II. Jul 18, 2013
Dpurf
Superior
  5.10a
Dpurf   Superior
  5.10a
I have to agree with Tony on the rating. Also to make it a better climb, start with Crack Love instead of going right to Crack Love II. I did it the way of Crack Love II and place a piece high in it before moving to the left. This may have made is easier. Jul 28, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
More direct if approached from below via Crack Love instead of the start to Crack Love II. Gear to pull the roof is placed blind and you wouldn't want to mess it up there, but I think the climb is easier than rated by a good margin. Jun 25, 2008