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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
Page Views: 1,151 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route ascends the conspicuous, narrow chimney between The Art of War and Thus Us. The rock is solid and good quality. Crux is in the last 20 feet of the chimney where it tapers from narrow to squeeze. Two bolts protect this final stretch. A big throw with the right arm and a virtual pullup get you out of the squeeze and up to a good stance at a two-bolt anchor with rings. You may have broken a sweat by then.

Tape up and wear appropriate clothing to protect your knees and elbows. Bolts and ring anchor were installed on 2 July 2007. Route was previously toproped. ENEMY is now a solid and reasonable lead...not a sport climb.

Location

Find this route on the NE Face of Avalon between The Art of War and Thus Us. Start along the left side of a huge block that has fallen about 3 feet and stopped. Thus Us begins along the right side of the same block.

Protection

Bring gear from a green Alien to a #2 Camalot. 2 bolts protect the last 20 feet of the chimney. 2-bolt anchor with rings at the top. This anchor has a good stance and can also be used for Thus Us.

Photos

Yaroslav Lototskyy
Longmont
 
Yaroslav Lototskyy   Longmont
 
This chimney reminded me chimney on last pitch of Casual Route on Diamond. So would be good training for Casual, but of course there are no bolts there.... Jun 18, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
This is fun, but sport climbers might not like it. It would be very hard to actually fall out of the chimney on this, but I am glad the bolts are present. Jun 21, 2013
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
  5.9
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
  5.9
Fun grovel. Seems easier than 10a to me. Sep 3, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The most physical climb on the wall, and also the least traveled if dirt is an indicator. Could still use a little more brushing. You can also climb outside the squeeze by stemmin' and palming. Jun 25, 2008