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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns
Page Views: 1,892 total · 13/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is an excellent crack climb that begins about 75 feet up and left from THE ART OF WAR. Climb a V-slot and a good hand crack to a roof. Work left to a perfect hand crack and climb to second roof. Place gear, pull the roof (crux) and cruise to a stance beneath a tree with slings and 2 carabiners. Lower off.

Location

Crack Love begins about 75 feet up and left from THE ART OF WAR. From the bottom of ART, follow the trail, hike up the talus 50 feet, then follow the trail up and right toward the NE Face. The route is obvious as you draw near the wall. Look for a clean V-slot above granite steps followed by a hand crack.

Protection

Bring gear from 0.5 inch to 4 inches.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
This is a good climb. I did not place a #4 Camalot or any nuts. I used cams from a 0.4 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. It is about 5.9 in difficulty. I used a chimney move at the crux. Jun 21, 2013
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Nice route. A #4 is not needed but is nice to have. The crux is pulling the 2nd roof. Sep 2, 2012
Rebecca
Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
Rebecca   Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
There is a bit of difficulty with rope management on this climb as the overhang and crack at the top tends to "eat" the rope a bit. We had a situation with a totally jammed rope. Be careful when setting up to not get the rope stuck. Aug 27, 2009
Dpurf
Superior
  5.9
Dpurf   Superior
  5.9
This is the best of the 3, Crack of Love. Fun moves all the way. As for the rating it is no more than a 5.9, and that is comparing other 5.9 trad climbs in the canyon. Jul 28, 2008
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
I agree with Ron's 5.9 rating; you can skip the #4 Camalot w/o compromising your safety. Also be careful about some loose rocks in the first roof (or yard on them like I did). Jun 8, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
An excellent crack climb. The step left under the first roof is airy and fun; watch out for some loose chockstones in the wide crack under the roof. Getting into the V-slot above the second roof was the hardest move; it seemed about 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.

At the top, I lowered off two slings and two biners around a tree. The rope is likely to get caught in the finger crack at the second roof if you do this.

I sewed it up with the following pro: small and large wired nuts (#4 and #12 BD Stoppers), pink tricam, green Alien, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2 #2 Camalots, #3 Camalot, and #4 Camalot.

Kudos to Richard and Pebby for all the hard work it took to clean the route, remove loose rock, and build a platform at the base of the climb. Jun 26, 2006

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