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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
Page Views: 355 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The 3 crack climbs, Ghost Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 25 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 25 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.

These routes are located on the NW corner of the Third Tier of Avalon, just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.

Ship of Fools: Climb a right-facing corner to a small roof, pull right and jam a perfect hand crack to where it narrows. Continue up difficult terrain to a horizontal break. Step right and climb a flared crack to the alcove at the top of Mystery Tour. Climb a short crack on the left wall and gain a good ledge and the belay tree for Dragon Slayer.

Location

This is the middle of the three cracks in the Crack Land Dihedral. Begin 10 feet left of Mystery Ship.

Protection

Nuts and cams from 0.5 inches to 3.5 inches. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a tree.
Climbed Sept. 2012. It was pretty clean. The gear is great and easy to place and the climbing is fun. As usual, I just wish the hand crack was longer. Sep 23, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Regarding the "good dictionary sized chunk" - it was hanging on by a thread and we trundled it. The whole block just left of the number "2" in this photo is now gone: mountainproject.com/v/color… Jul 18, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I think the route is more like 80' or maybe less. I'm pretty sure a 50m would reach all, but I didn't try, because I don't own a 50m (short ropes are not sexy). Anyway, pretty good climbing, but watch the black right before the overlap in the handcrack- there is fresh breakage in the area and a good dictionary-sized chunk looks and sounds ready to go next.
Also, the uppser section where it goes right might not be best for a tentative leader at this grade. There are a few, but not a lot of gear options. Jun 19, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Ship of Fools is a fun climb with solid gear. It's one of the cleaner routes up in crack land and should not be missed. Ends up being about 90 feet to the tree. Rap off of two slings with two rap rings. Someone could do a service and replace the slings. I would have but I just used my last ones yesterday. SR to #2 Camalot. Maybe a #3. Aug 19, 2007
mikeneu  
Nice hand crack and great work on the trail from here to Crack Love. Jul 17, 2006