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Elevation: 7,477 ft 2,279 m
GPS: 39.99863, -105.41169
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Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Third Tier of Avalon is high and remote; few climbers venture up here. But those that do will be rewarded with great views, and a wilder, "adventure climbing" feel away from the crowds down below.

The first route up here was Black Tiger, established in 1989. However, most of the routes are fairly new. Richard Rossiter has been active up here recently, putting up a number of new routes in 2005 and 2006. Some of the new routes are sport routes, but some are trad crack climbs. Bring a full trad rack with hand, fist, and wider pro if you want to do the crack routes.

Be prepared for some moss and lichen on many of these new routes, since the rock faces more to the north and the routes haven't seen much traffic. If you want to perform a community service, bring a wire brush along and help clean up the routes.

A decent trail traverses the entire Third Tier, starting from the Southwest Buttress on the right, going all the way over to Crack Land on the left.

The areas of the Third Tier, from R->L:

Southwest Buttress - Called the Summit Pyramid in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The first area you get to on the Third Tier. A smooth wall on the right side of the Third Tier, home to The Solution (10c), Black Tiger (11c) and Jaguar (11c).

Wall of the Goddess - Several hundred feet left of the Southwest Buttress. A short wall with two bolted anchors and several trad crack climbs: Isis (9+), Yoni (8), and Amrita (10c).

West Gully - just beyond the Wall of the Goddess and up a gully to the right. Five new routes: Merlin's Enigma (11d), Charon's Boat (9), Knight of Swords (10c), Dragon Direct (9), and Sorcerer's Apprentice (8).

Wall of the Dragon - the remote area above the West Gully. Two new sport routes: Dragon Fly (9) and Dragon Slayer (10b).

Crack Land - starts just left of the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is just beyond the gully. Farther to the left lie Ancient Light (10c), Ancient Fright (10c), and Resurrection (9). The latter route takes you to the summit of Avalon, a wild but peaceful place with superb views.

New routes in Crack Land in 2006 include The Art of War (10c), Thus Us (9), The Enemy Within (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), Mystery Tour (9), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport climb; all the others are trad crack climbs.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Wall of the Dead on the Second Tier, take a trail around to the right and up the hill. The trail meets the Third Tier at the right side, and cuts back left underneath the Southwest Buttress. The trail continues downstream, staying fairly level most of the way, all the way over to Crack Land.

Continuing on the trail beyond Crack Land takes you to Wizard Rock.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: Third Tier Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Third Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Mystery Tour
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 36
Crack Love II
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
Crack Love
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Ship of Fools
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Crack Love III
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Dragon Slayer
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
The Art Of War
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Blade
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Ancient Light
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
War Horse
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Knight of Swords
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Resistance
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mystery Tour Crack Land
 59
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack Love II Crack Land
 36
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Crack Love Crack Land
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ship of Fools Crack Land
 41
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crack Love III Crack Land
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dragon Slayer Wall of the Dragon
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Art Of War Crack Land
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blade Crack Land
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ancient Light Crack Land
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
War Horse Crack Land
 24
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Knight of Swords W Gully
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Resistance Southwest Buttress
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Third Tier »

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