Third Tier Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.999, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The first route up here was Black Tiger, established in 1989. However, most of the routes are fairly new. Richard Rossiter has been active up here recently, putting up a number of new routes in 2005 and 2006. Some of the new routes are sport routes, but some are trad crack climbs. Bring a full trad rack with hand, fist, and wider pro if you want to do the crack routes.
Be prepared for some moss and lichen on many of these new routes, since the rock faces more to the north and the routes haven't seen much traffic. If you want to perform a community service, bring a wire brush along and help clean up the routes.
A decent trail traverses the entire Third Tier, starting from the Southwest Buttress on the right, going all the way over to Crack Land on the left.
The areas of the Third Tier, from R->L:
Southwest Buttress - Called the Summit Pyramid in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The first area you get to on the Third Tier. A smooth wall on the right side of the Third Tier, home to The Solution (10c), Black Tiger (11c) and Jaguar (11c).
Wall of the Goddess - Several hundred feet left of the Southwest Buttress. A short wall with two bolted anchors and several trad crack climbs: Isis (9+), Yoni (8), and Amrita (10c).
West Gully - just beyond the Wall of the Goddess and up a gully to the right. Five new routes: Merlin's Enigma (11d), Charon's Boat (9), Knight of Swords (10c), Dragon Direct (9), and Sorcerer's Apprentice (8).
Wall of the Dragon - the remote area above the West Gully. Two new sport routes: Dragon Fly (9) and Dragon Slayer (10b).
Crack Land - starts just left of the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is just beyond the gully. Farther to the left lie Ancient Light (10c), Ancient Fright (10c), and Resurrection (9). The latter route takes you to the summit of Avalon, a wild but peaceful place with superb views.
New routes in Crack Land in 2006 include The Art of War (10c), Thus Us (9), The Enemy Within (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), Mystery Tour (9), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport climb; all the others are trad crack climbs.
Continuing on the trail beyond Crack Land takes you to Wizard Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Third Tier
Days w Precip