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Routes in West Gully

Charon's Boat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dragon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight of Swords S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Merlin's Enigma S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

The West Gully lies just beyond the Wall of the Goddess. It is a steep gully with no established trail. Be careful scrambling in this area, as there is some loose rock and bushes to deal with.

Richard Rossiter established five routes here in 2005.

L->R:

A. Merlin's Enigma, 11+, 1p, 4 bolts. V-dihedral to roof.
B. Charon's Boat, 9+, 1p, 3 bolts. Corner to hand traverse.
C. Knight of Swords, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face by big boulder.
D. Dragon Direct, 9, 1p, 70', 2 bolts & gear to 2".
E. Sorcerer's Apprentice, 7+, 1p, 3 bolts, optional gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Continue left past the Wall of the Goddess and drop down to a pile of boulders. The West Gully rises immediately to the right.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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