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Routes in West Gully

Charon's Boat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dragon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight of Swords S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Merlin's Enigma S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter (roped solo), 2005
Page Views: 1,106 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details


This route ascends the steep, west-facing wall just up and right from Charon's Boat. Start a short distance up the gully at a big block with a J-shaped tree.

Climb straight out of the gully via sidepulls and gain a series of underclings. The steep initial moves may be avoided by stemming across from a huge block to clip the second bolt. This is a pretty good route either way.


5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off.


The loose block is to the left as you move from last bolt to the anchor. Lots of painful sharp holds. Direct start is 10d/11a. Jul 16, 2013
Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The block behind is in no way part of the route. Thus it has been decreed. Nor is the tree on the route, nor is anything on the route that is not on the face. I agree with the Tony B, the Bubbster, in that the route is 10d/11a and the crux is the second bolt. The block at the top is attached only with an amalgam of dirt and lichen, so don't grab it. To get to the second bolt, I recommend the beta from my partner, which is to layback on the left-facing flake at the bottom and work the feet up on small edges doing a left/right-crossover/left. Oct 3, 2011
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
Thanks, RR, for all the work up this way, very beautiful setting. This route was probably the best of the ones I got on.

Seems pretty clean at this point, the only thing that seemed concerning was the fractured lower part of the giant, left-facing flake at mid-height; however, I can't really imagine how it could be pulled on to break it out from behind the solid flake.

I definitely agree w/ TB that if you're not feeling very solid, stick clip or lean across and climb the first section w/ the 2nd bolt clipped. It would be very unlikely to walk away unscathed if you blow the 2nd clip. I also agree that if you charge straight up from the ground it will feel a little stiff for a 10. Sep 12, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
It didn't even occur to me to use the block back behind me.... I thought the route was probably hard 10/easy 11, and the hardest part was getting the second clip. If you are limited in ability to 5.10, you really should get that second bolt clipped or do the stem back... it would suck to blow that clip! Jun 24, 2008
What is this route rated if you do a direct start and do not use the boulder off to the side to start at the second bolt? We did it that way and thought it was pretty hard, at least an 11. May 8, 2008
Richard Rossiter
Richard Rossiter  
Note to the folks...I am offically changing the name of this route to the KNIGHT OF SWORDS (an afterthought), as it is one of several ways you can reach Dragon Slayer. I think the sword has been the traditional weapon for slaying dragons. Thank you and keep up the great work. This website is not only very useful, but is a lot of fun. By the way, climb this route straight up out of the gully and it has a new crux. Jul 21, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
A fun route that's well worth doing; steep and sustained with varied moves all the way up.

I was able to clip the second bolt from the stem off the huge boulder; shorter climbers may have difficulty making the clip before committing to the wall. I did not try the direct start, avoiding the stem off the boulder.

Avoid a loose block on the left just below the top.

My partner cleaned up the route with a wire brush and whisk broom on the way down, but the route could still use more cleaning. Sep 20, 2005

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