Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Gully

Charon's Boat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dragon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight of Swords S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Merlin's Enigma S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, 2005
Page Views: 1,216 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the Third Tier of Avalon. Continue around to the east and descend slightly to a gully full of boulders. Identify two obvious dihedrals capped by a roof. The route ascends the right side of the arete just right of the right dihedral, about 30 feet right of Mystery Ship.

Climb straight up past two bolts, then finger traverse left (very cool). Stretch up and clip the third bolt, then work straight up to a tiny stance with a 2-bolt anchor. Lower off.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus optional gear up to 1 inch.
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Pretty good. Would be more stars except it's so short. Airy traverse. Aug 12, 2010
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Seemed a bit stiff for "Boulder-Canyon 5.9." Sep 11, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
A short but fun route which seemed harder than the typical Avalon 5.9. The finger traverse between the second and third bolts is airy and it's a stretch to reach the third bolt. This clip could be hard for shorter climbers; maybe this bolt should have been placed 6" to 1' lower.

If the third clip seems too committing, it's possible to place pro (small cam) in the horizontal finger crack before clipping the third bolt on this route; see photo. Aug 12, 2005