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Areas in Avalon

First Tier 5 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Second Tier 15 / 28 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
Third Tier 23 / 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32

Description

After climbing in Boulder for almost twenty years, it is great to be able to visit new crags just ten minutes away. Unlike some of the newly developed Boulder Canyon crags (one-visit-wonders like Bowling Alley or Cornerstone) I'm still psyched to return to Avalon after a handful of visits. Avalon is one of the many, mostly-bolted crags in the narrows of Boulder Canyon. The rock seems really nice, typical of the higher quality Boulder Canyon stuff, cleaner and more pleasant than the stuff on Vampire Rock, (maybe because of the sunnier aspect) and the crag, nestled in a steep west-facing gully, has less of the road noise/roadside-feel than many others. It is shady in the mornings, but expect some afternoon sun.

Avalon is home to many moderate (5.8 to 5.10) sport routes, and has become popular in recent years. It can get busy on summer weekends.

Most of the routes are fully bolted, but several require a few pieces of trad gear. Be sure to check the route description before you head up with just a rack of quickdraws. Bring a rack of nuts and cams to 2" if you're going to do any of the "mixed" routes; otherwise, 12 quickdraws are enough for the longest route. A few routes could use one or two longer runners to keep down rope drag. Bring a 60m rope; some of the routes require it to lower or rappel.

Richard Rossiter's website, Boulder Climbs, has descriptions of most Avalon routes, as does Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II: The Upper Canyon". Rossiter's current Boulder Canyon guidebook lists very few of the Avalon routes.

The routes on Avalon lie on three tiers. The First Tier, closest to the creek, has a number of good routes: Mists of Avalon (10a), Iron Maiden (9+), Slayer (10b), and Marquis de Sade (10d) are popular.

The Second Tier is home to most of the routes on Avalon. It is a complex area, and is split into several sub-areas: Tarot Wall has Lust (10c), The Tower (10a), and Wheel of Fortune (10a). The Three Dihedrals area has the ever-popular Dominator (10b). The Clipboard Area has The Clipboard (11b) and Stigmata (10a). The Middle Wall has Strange Science (11c), Free Fall (12a), and Incline Club (8). The Wall of the Dead has the fun Dead Can Dance (9).

The Third Tier is the most remote and is visited by few climbers. Many routes up here have some moss and lichen, since the rock faces more to the north than down below, and the routes have seen little traffic. Come here to get away from the crowds. Visit the Wall of the Goddess for some trad crack-climbing practice. Climb on the remote Crack Land or Wall of the Dragon to experience "adventure sport climbing". Climb Ancient Light (10a) to Ancient Fright (10c) to Resurrection (9) to visit the true summit of Avalon, a magical place! The Art Of War (10c) is an excellent new sport route in Crack Land.

In 2006, Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns aded a number of new crack climbs in Crack Land bring your trad rack and have some fun!
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

There are two places to park:

  • In a small paved pullout on the right side of the road, 8.2 miles up the canyon, just across from the crag. This is 0.1 miles past Practice Rock, just past a right-hand bend in the road. Cross the road and spot the talus field below Avalon.

Warning: As of 6/20/07, this area has been posted as a no-parking zone. Evidently people are being ticketed for parking here. It's possible to park a bit downstream, just before the start of the no-parking zone. The no-parking sign is NOT visible at the usual parking pullout.

  • In a pullout on the left side of the road, 8.4 miles up the canyon, across from The Boulderado and Animal World. This is just past a concrete guard rail on the left. From here, walk 0.2 miles downstream, past Black Widow, Vampire Rock, and the Watermark, to the talus field below Avalon.

Crossing the creek:

  • There is a tyrolean traverse (currently 3 ropes) below the talus field; use this if the water level is too high to wade.
  • If the water level is low enough, you can wade downstream of the talus field.
  • If the water level is really low, you can hop rocks to get across.

Specific access directions for each tier will be listed in those sections.

Trails

Please stay on trails when wandering about at this crag. The popularity of this crag has led to erosion of unforseen magnitude. Hard work on the part of concerned climbers has helped mitigate this. Thanks!

83 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Avalon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sword In The Stone
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Can Dance
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mists of Avalon
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Tower
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Again
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominator
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marquis de Sade
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lust
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supernatural
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The Clipboard
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Devil
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strange Science
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chairman of the Board
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Fall
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ripcord
Sport
Sword In The Stone First Tier 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dead Can Dance Second Tier > Wall of the Dead 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Mists of Avalon First Tier 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Tower Second Tier > Tarot Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dead Again Second Tier > Wall of the Dead 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dominator Second Tier > Three Dihedrals 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Marquis de Sade First Tier 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lust Second Tier > Tarot Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Supernatural Second Tier > Middle Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Clipboard Second Tier > Clipboard Area 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Devil Second Tier > Tarot Wall 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Strange Science Second Tier > Middle Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Chairman of the Board Second Tier > Clipboard Area 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Free Fall Second Tier > Middle Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ripcord Second Tier > Middle Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Avalon »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
If you park at the pullout on the south side of the road across from the Boulderado, walk downstream past the first tyrolean.

I've been at Vampire twice in the last month, and 3 parties have arrived thinking they were at Avalon. Jun 9, 2017
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
Fun area, avoid the weekends unless you like lines, hammocks, music, dogs, and shirtless sport climbers. Jul 16, 2016
Found guidebook by the Wall of The Dead. You/your lady friend left a guidebook by Incline Club and went on to bail off of Strange Science. PM me with what you were wearing when you left it. May 20, 2013
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Ben going up there today, I'll let you know if I find them. Sep 2, 2012
Found: A belay device at Avalon today. Let me know what kind of belay device it is, its color, and where you left it, and we can work out getting it back to you. Thanks. 714.403.5355 May 1, 2012
Bruno D
Boulder, CO
Bruno D   Boulder, CO
Someone left some climbing shoes on the roadside of the tyrolean...give me a call if they are yours...9732550862. Aug 7, 2011
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
Thanks Tony! That is exactly what I was talking about. Worth doing? I kind of want to hop on it just b/c it's bizarre to me...doesn't seem like it should even be a bolted line...with enough pads and spotters it could go as a highball. But it'd be cool/funny to do a 2 bolt .11d. Jun 23, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Andrew,
I believe you may be speaking of this:
mountainproject.com/v/goat-… Jun 21, 2011
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
Does anyone know what the 2 bolt route is on the large boulder right off the trail to second tier and maybe 100 yds down from middle wall? It's just one route with 2 bolts!!? Jun 21, 2011
Pebby Johns
Boulder, Colorado
Pebby Johns   Boulder, Colorado
Many thanks for the beautiful work done on the tyrolean at Avalon. Thank you Ron, Bruno and Matt. The job was well planned out and the "ride" feels very safe. The addition of the new rope is awesome. Thank you again for a job well done.
Pebby Johns Jul 3, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
On Wednesday 6/20/07, Bruno Haché, Matt Gates and I upgraded the Avalon tyrolean. The following work was done:

  • Installed a second bolt, hanger, 1/2" quick-link, and chain to anchor the tyrolean on the road side.
  • Replaced the old carabiners with 1/2" quick-links on the road side.
  • Replaced all the ropes. Two of the three strands are brand-new 11mm rope.

Thanks to Kevin Currigan for donating the new rope, and to Bruno Haché for donating the hardware, and for his technical skill in setting up the tyrolean. Jun 21, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
The Avalon tyrolean is three ropes attached to two huge boulders. Getting off at the far end is easy; coming back is a little harder, but still far easier than the Cob Rock tyrolean.

I haven't been up there in a while, so I don't know if the water is low enough to wade. The usual wading spot is about 100' downstream from the tyrolean, just left of a steep rock wall on the far side. Jul 28, 2006
Mike Stein
Denver, CO
Mike Stein   Denver, CO
How good is the tyrolean here? And does anyone know if it is a rope or steel cable? Or is it possible right now to just wade it? Thanks! Jul 28, 2006
SAFETY NOTE. As of 15 September 2005 myself and Joan Johns have been clearing some very large loose blocks from the Northeast Face of the Third Tier of Avalon. This was essential and has gone quite well. However, if you plan to climb routes such as, Ancient Fright or Ancient Light bring a small broom to clean off the holds. A great deal of dirt and rock fragments were deposited on the holds and ledges of these routes. Routes farther to the west such as Mystery Ship, Charon's Boat and Dragon Slayer should not have been affected. Sep 16, 2005
TBlom  
Bruce Pech and I replaced the rotting tyrolean traverse at Avalon last week. The new version is very simple, two strands cross the creek, both strands are tied with figure eight knots at both ends to two separate bolts on each side (four total). The two lines are kept together by an overhand knot on the road side, this side has very little extra rope involved. The other side of the creek (cliff side)has more rope involved,in a series of fisherman's knots. As this line is used and abused, left out in the sun and rain and snow... The line will eventually sag. If you must tighten the line or jury-rig something to make things work, it should be easiest from the cliff side. We used two ascenders, rigged a z-pulley setup, tensioned the #@%& out of both lines and tied them off directly to the links on the bolts. Good Luck.

P.S. The water is low enough that it is pretty easy to cross. Take your chances. Jul 22, 2004
There's a new Tyrolean directly below the talus gully on the upstream edge of Avalon (the most direct approach to the Lower Tier, Tarot Wall, Clipboard, Middle Wall, etc.) Today, thanks to TB's rigging skills, the old, trashed ropes in the Tyrolean below Solaris were replaced for safer access to Solaris, Avalon (via the trail from Solaris to the Tarot Wall), and the south side of Bell Buttress. Jul 16, 2004
?????  
Some alternate directions for those in need...

From Boulder access Avalon just past Boulder Falls. Guardrail at Boulder Falls ends, then another starts in about _ mile. There is a parking area at the end of that guardrail on the left. Park there and hike back down on the creek side of the guardrail. If you look toward the creek, you'll see several ropes crossing a significant rapid about 20 feet over the creek. That's not it. Keep going till you see a green rope close to the creek in a bushy slow moving section a little way farther. Wade across the creek there. Head straight up through the trees veering left as you go up. You should be able to make out a trail. You'll come to some rocks with some bolted routes. That's Watermark. Turn left (downhill) and wind around the underside of Watermark veering right. Pass a big tree and enter a boulder field. Head straight up that. This is Avalon. The First Tier is directly to your left as you head up. The Second Tier is just beyond the top of the boulder field. Jul 9, 2004

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