Elevation: 7,326 ft
GPS: 39.999, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 212,888 total · 983/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Nov 30, 2001 with improvements by Erik H
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

After climbing in Boulder for almost twenty years, it is great to be able to visit new crags just ten minutes away. Unlike some of the newly developed Boulder Canyon crags (one-visit-wonders like Bowling Alley or Cornerstone) I'm still psyched to return to Avalon after a handful of visits. Avalon is one of the many, mostly-bolted crags in the narrows of Boulder Canyon. The rock seems really nice, typical of the higher quality Boulder Canyon stuff, cleaner and more pleasant than the stuff on Vampire Rock, (maybe because of the sunnier aspect) and the crag, nestled in a steep west-facing gully, has less of the road noise/roadside-feel than many others. It is shady in the mornings, but expect some afternoon sun.

Avalon is home to many moderate (5.8 to 5.10) sport routes, and has become popular in recent years. It can get busy on summer weekends.

Most of the routes are fully bolted, but several require a few pieces of trad gear. Be sure to check the route description before you head up with just a rack of quickdraws. Bring a rack of nuts and cams to 2" if you're going to do any of the "mixed" routes; otherwise, 12 quickdraws are enough for the longest route. A few routes could use one or two longer runners to keep down rope drag. Bring a 60m rope; some of the routes require it to lower or rappel.

Richard Rossiter's website, Boulder Climbs, has descriptions of most Avalon routes, as does Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II: The Upper Canyon". Rossiter's current Boulder Canyon guidebook lists very few of the Avalon routes.

The routes on Avalon lie on three tiers. The First Tier, closest to the creek, has a number of good routes: Mists of Avalon (10a), Iron Maiden (9+), Slayer (10b), and Marquis de Sade (10d) are popular.

The Second Tier is home to most of the routes on Avalon. It is a complex area, and is split into several sub-areas: Tarot Wall has Lust (10c), The Tower (10a), and Wheel of Fortune (10a). The Three Dihedrals area has the ever-popular Dominator (10b). The Clipboard Area has The Clipboard (11b) and Stigmata (10a). The Middle Wall has Strange Science (11c), Free Fall (12a), and Incline Club (8). The Wall of the Dead has the fun Dead Can Dance (9).

The Third Tier is the most remote and is visited by few climbers. Many routes up here have some moss and lichen, since the rock faces more to the north than down below, and the routes have seen little traffic. Come here to get away from the crowds. Visit the Wall of the Goddess for some trad crack-climbing practice. Climb on the remote Crack Land or Wall of the Dragon to experience "adventure sport climbing". Climb Ancient Light (10a) to Ancient Fright (10c) to Resurrection (9) to visit the true summit of Avalon, a magical place! The Art Of War (10c) is an excellent new sport route in Crack Land.

In 2006, Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns aded a number of new crack climbs in Crack Land; bring your trad rack and have some fun!

Getting There

There are two places to park:

* In a small paved pullout on the right side of the road, 8.2 miles up the canyon, just across from the crag. This is 0.1 miles past Practice Rock, just past a right-hand bend in the road. Cross the road and spot the talus field below Avalon.

Warning: As of 6/20/07, this area has been posted as a no-parking zone. Evidently people are being ticketed for parking here. It's possible to park a bit downstream, just before the start of the no-parking zone. The no-parking sign is NOT visible at the usual parking pullout.

* In a pullout on the left side of the road, 8.4 miles up the canyon, across from The Boulderado and Animal World. This is just past a concrete guard rail on the left. From here, walk 0.2 miles downstream, past Black Widow, Vampire Rock, and the Watermark, to the talus field below Avalon.

Crossing the creek:

* There is a tyrolean traverse (currently 2 ropes, one rope is frayed) below the talus field; use this if the water level is too high to wade.

* If the water level is low enough, you can wade downstream of the talus field.

* If the water level is really low, you can hop rocks to get across.

Specific access directions for each tier will be listed in those sections.

Trails

Please stay on trails when wandering about at this crag. The popularity of this crag has led to erosion of unforseen magnitude. Hard work on the part of concerned climbers has helped mitigate this. Thanks!

83 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Avalon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 305
Sword In The Stone
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 317
Dead Can Dance
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 295
Mists of Avalon
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 347
The Tower
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 256
Dead Again
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 256
Dominator
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 210
Marquis de Sade
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 442
Lust
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 181
Supernatural
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 156
The Clipboard
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 214
The Devil
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 355
Strange Science
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 102
Chairman of the Board
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 188
Free Fall
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 165
Ripcord
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sword In The Stone First Tier
 305
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dead Can Dance Second Tier > Wall of the Dead
 317
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Mists of Avalon First Tier
 295
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Tower Second Tier > Tarot Wall
 347
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dead Again Second Tier > Wall of the Dead
 256
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dominator Second Tier > Three Dihedrals
 256
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Marquis de Sade First Tier
 210
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lust Second Tier > Tarot Wall
 442
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Supernatural Second Tier > Middle Wall
 181
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Clipboard Second Tier > Clipboard Area
 156
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Devil Second Tier > Tarot Wall
 214
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Strange Science Second Tier > Middle Wall
 355
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Chairman of the Board Second Tier > Clipboard Area
 102
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Free Fall Second Tier > Middle Wall
 188
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ripcord Second Tier > Middle Wall
 165
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Avalon »

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