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Routes in West Gully

Charon's Boat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dragon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight of Swords S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Merlin's Enigma S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Page Views: 612 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Oct 2, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Look for 2 bolts up and right from the Knight of Swords. Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top. One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon.

I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off. I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World country. You park your car for a little while and when you come back the wheels are gone, the battery's gone, the spare tire and jack are gone, and the clothes you left in the back are gone. Oh, and the seats are gone too. The next thing you know, we'll have rigged elections.

Protection

2 bolts to get started, gear to 2 inches thereafter. Gain a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off or continue up to the ramp beneath Wall of the Dragon.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The trad part up top is super-mellow (5.5?) and takes pretty good gear for a climb without a salient crack, per se. A good place to practice more advanced gear placements and runner work, I think. Jun 24, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Several hard moves past the two bolts at the start. Seemed more like 9+ or 10a than 9. There's a decent stance at the two-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch; you can belay here, bring your partner up, and then easily move up to the tree on the ledge by the Wall of the Dragon.

We replaced the rappel anchor on this tree: two slings and rap rings. Hopefully, this anchor won't disappear! Apr 16, 2006