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Routes in Wall of the Dragon

Dragon Fly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Page Views: 1,055 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 10, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a beautiful route on the upper NW Face of the Third Tier of Avalon. This is the Wall of The Dragon and is around to the right from the second pitch of Ancient Light, though it cannot be accessed from Ancient Light unless you climb Blade.

Follow approach directions given in Wall of the Dragon.

Work up and left to clip the first bolt, then go straight left until it is possible to climb straight up to the second bolt.. Et cetera. This route is wholly worth the weird approach.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Lower off.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
You can climb it straight on without really hard moves. The upper part shares moves with Blade (the difference is gear vs bolts). Fun climbing, but kinda felt odd climbing another route and clipping these bolts. Jun 19, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
You can access/climb this & Dragon Fly after climbing Mystery Tour or Mystery Ship. Not knowing what we were climbing, these almost seemed like extensions/2nd pitches of Mystery Tour/Ship. Aug 20, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
This is a great pitch; one of my favorites on Avalon. Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top.

We geared up on a spacious ledge at the top of the ramp and scrambled down to the tree to belay. Be sure to anchor the belayer to the tree; this spot is exposed.

The crux is the traverse left past the first bolt; thin edges for the feet make it possible. Climb up and clip the second bolt and breathe a sigh of relief. Solid face moves past the second and third bolts, an unusual ramp by the fourth and fifth bolts, and an overhang at the top round out a great pitch of climbing.

The rock is still a little dirty but should clean up with more traffic. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to wire brush the route on the way down.

If you've climbed everything else on Avalon, make the trek up to the Wall of the Dragon and do this route! Sep 15, 2005