Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
Page Views: 3,729 total · 24/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Blade ascends the blatant, overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of Dragon Slayer and is a link between the second pitch of Ancient Light and the final corner of Dragon Slayer. Good jams on the left with the opportunity for daring stems all the way up. The crux is the last 20 feet before joining Dragon Slayer. Good rock and good pro all the way.

Blade makes an interesting circuit. Begin with the first pitch of Ancient Light and belay at the rings above the big ledge. Climb the second pitch to the right side of Penis Envy Pillar, but don't climb the pillar. One can belay here, just right of the PE Pillar, which reduces rope drag and keeps the belayer in touch with the leader (though I have not done this). Pull through a small roof and ascend the obvious right-facing, right arching dihedral. Join Dragon Slayer and lower off from the 2-ring anchor at the top (the anchor is 3 feet above a final roof). Arrive at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around the tree (down the Crack Land Dihedral - Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools and Mystery Tour) to the trail maybe 100 feet west from the start to Ancient Light.

Location

Blade begins with the first 40 feet of the second pitch of Ancient Light and becomes an independent line at the right side of Penis Envy Pillar. The pitch is 90 feet long and finishes at the ring anchors atop Dragon Slayer.

Protection

Ancient Light (P2) and the last bit of Dragon Slayer each require a couple of draws. Recommendation: clip only the second bolt on Ancient Light P2, then back-clean the draw when it is easy to pull right around the arete. The subsequent dihedral (Blade) is strictly gear from 0.25 inch to 3 inches. Plan on maybe 5 to 8 placements. Ring anchors at the top. Lower off to the belay tree for Dragon Slayer, which is the tree at the top of the Crack Land Dihedral, Ship of Fools and Ghost Ship.

Photos