Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, 5/2006
Page Views: 4,639 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This climb has a few cruxes in the low 5.10 range and probably clocks in at about 5.10b now that it has cleaned up. The hardest moves are ~1/2 of the way up the climb and require balance, not power. The route is long, continuous and in places complex for its modest grade. I believe I recall 9 clips to a 2-bolt anchor. The route will be a classic for the area- possibly the best 10 at Avalon.

Richard and Pebby have cleaned this route extensively, followed by another session of cleaning by Pebby and Bruno. They deserve some thanks and recognition for how hard they've worked at providing an 'instant classic' as opposed to a 'cleaner-upper.'

The final bit of Art of War has some remaining lichen, but it is not on the holds or at the crux so it does not detract from the route.

Location Suggest change

This route is presently the highest route (left-most) on the NE face of the third tier of Avalon. Come around the corner from th Wall of the Goddess and pass Charon's Boat/Merlin's Enigma to the Eastwardly aspect of the cliff and continue for ~100 meters, reaching an area where the trail is less beat down and distinct. Look for bolts going up a clean arete, just a few meters left of an obvious trad line with a fist crack.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60m rope required to lower or rap.