Elevation: 7,469 ft
GPS: 39.999, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,160 total · 119/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Tonight
45°F 7°C
Sun
70°F - 46°F 21°C - 8°C
Mon
67°F - 46°F 19°C - 8°C
Tue
66°F - 47°F 19°C - 8°C
Wed
72°F - 48°F 22°C - 9°C
Thu
75°F - 47°F 24°C - 8°C
Fri
71°F - 44°F 22°C - 7°C
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Crack Land is the leftmost area on the Third Tier. Most routes here were established by Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns in 2005 and 2006. Because of the orientation of the rock (north) and the newness of the routes, expect to see some moss and lichen when you climb here. If this bothers you, climb someplace else. Better yet, bring a wire brush and whisk broom and help clean up the routes as you're rapping off.

Crack Land starts just beyond the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is the first route you see. Just past Mystery Ship are three new crack routes established in July 2006: Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), and Mystery Tour (9).

Hike east down the trail and into the woods to get to Ancient Light (10a). Climbing Ancient Light takes you to a big ledge, where the second pitch of Ancient Light (10c) and Ancient Fright (10c) begin. Climbing Ancient Fright takes you to Resurrection (9). Climbing Resurrection takes you to the summit of Avalon, a magical place with wonderful views.

In May, June, and July 2006, Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns added eight more routes on the far left side: The Art of War (10b), The Enemy Within (10a), Thus Us (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport route; the others are trad climbs.

Crack Land now has a number of good routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, making it worth a visit by every Avalon climber.

L->R:

On the far L side:
A. Crack Love, 9+, 1p, 75', gear to 4". Crack up corners & roofs.
B1. Crack Love III, 10, 1p, 75', gear to 2.5". R finish to B2.
B2. Crack Love II, 9-, 1p, 75', gear to 4". Hand, fist, & offwidth past a roof.
C. The Art of War, 10, 1p, 100', 9 bolts. Arete.
D. The Enemy Within, 10-, 1p, 2 bolts & gear to 2". Squeeze chimney.
E. Thus Us, 9, 1p, 75', gear, extra 3" to 4". Hand & fist crack.
F. War Horse, 10, 1p, 75', 3 bolts & gear to 1.5". RFDs.
G. Ancient Fright, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face.
H. Resurrection, 9, 1p, 2 bolts & gear to 3". Crack & face to summit of Avalon.
I. Ancient Sight, 8+, 1p, 100', gear to 3". Cracks and face right of H.
J. Ancient Light, 10, 2p, 150', P1 bolts, bolts & gear. Traverse under a roof to an arete->Pillar to face.
K. Blade, 10+, 1p, 90', gear to 3". RFD R of p2 of J.

L. Old Dragon Ballz, 10, 1p, 40', gear.

Routes near the West Gully:
M1. Ghost Ship, 10-, 1p, 90', gear to 3". Left crack.
M2. Ship of Fools, 10, 1p, 90', gear to 3.5". Middle crack.
M3. Mystery Tour, 9, 1p, 90', gear to 5". LFD on right.
N. Mystery Ship, 10, 75', 6 bolts. Roof to face to headwall.

Getting There

From the Wall of the Goddess, drop down to the bottom of a boulder-filled gully. This is the West Gully. Crack Land begins just past the gully.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crack Land

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Mystery Tour
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 30
Crack Love II
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Crack Love
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
The Enemy Within
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Ancient Light
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
The Art Of War
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Blade
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mystery Tour
 37
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack Love II
 30
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Crack Love
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Enemy Within
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ancient Light
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Art Of War
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blade
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
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