Crack Land Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.999, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Crack Land starts just beyond the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is the first route you see. Just past Mystery Ship are three new crack routes established in July 2006: Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), and Mystery Tour (9).
Hike east down the trail and into the woods to get to Ancient Light (10a). Climbing Ancient Light takes you to a big ledge, where the second pitch of Ancient Light (10c) and Ancient Fright (10c) begin. Climbing Ancient Fright takes you to Resurrection (9). Climbing Resurrection takes you to the summit of Avalon, a magical place with wonderful views.
In May, June, and July 2006, Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns added eight more routes on the far left side: The Art of War (10b), The Enemy Within (10a), Thus Us (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport route; the others are trad climbs.
Crack Land now has a number of good routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, making it worth a visit by every Avalon climber.
On the far L side:
A. Crack Love, 9+, 1p, 75', gear to 4". Crack up corners & roofs.
B1. Crack Love III, 10, 1p, 75', gear to 2.5". R finish to B2.
B2. Crack Love II, 9-, 1p, 75', gear to 4". Hand, fist, & offwidth past a roof.
C. The Art of War, 10, 1p, 100', 9 bolts. Arete.
D. The Enemy Within, 10-, 1p, 2 bolts & gear to 2". Squeeze chimney.
E. Thus Us, 9, 1p, 75', gear, extra 3" to 4". Hand & fist crack.
F. War Horse, 10, 1p, 75', 3 bolts & gear to 1.5". RFDs.
G. Ancient Fright, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face.
H. Resurrection, 9, 1p, 2 bolts & gear to 3". Crack & face to summit of Avalon.
I. Ancient Sight, 8+, 1p, 100', gear to 3". Cracks and face right of H.
J. Ancient Light, 10, 2p, 150', P1 bolts, bolts & gear. Traverse under a roof to an arete->Pillar to face.
K. Blade, 10+, 1p, 90', gear to 3". RFD R of p2 of J.
L. Old Dragon Ballz, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
Routes near the West Gully:
M1. Ghost Ship, 10-, 1p, 90', gear to 3". Left crack.
M2. Ship of Fools, 10, 1p, 90', gear to 3.5". Middle crack.
M3. Mystery Tour, 9, 1p, 90', gear to 5". LFD on right.
N. Mystery Ship, 10, 75', 6 bolts. Roof to face to headwall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Crack Land
Days w Precip