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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Crack Land is the leftmost area on the Third Tier. Most routes here were established by Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns in 2005 and 2006. Because of the orientation of the rock (north) and the newness of the routes, expect to see some moss and lichen when you climb here. If this bothers you, climb someplace else. Better yet, bring a wire brush and whisk broom and help clean up the routes as you're rapping off.

Crack Land starts just beyond the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is the first route you see. Just past Mystery Ship are three new crack routes established in July 2006: Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), and Mystery Tour (9).

Hike east down the trail and into the woods to get to Ancient Light (10a). Climbing Ancient Light takes you to a big ledge, where the second pitch of Ancient Light (10c) and Ancient Fright (10c) begin. Climbing Ancient Fright takes you to Resurrection (9). Climbing Resurrection takes you to the summit of Avalon, a magical place with wonderful views.

In May, June, and July 2006, Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns added eight more routes on the far left side: The Art of War (10b), The Enemy Within (10a), Thus Us (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport route; the others are trad climbs.

Crack Land now has a number of good routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, making it worth a visit by every Avalon climber.

L->R:

On the far L side:
A. Crack Love, 9+, 1p, 75', gear to 4". Crack up corners & roofs.
B1. Crack Love III, 10, 1p, 75', gear to 2.5". R finish to B2.
B2. Crack Love II, 9-, 1p, 75', gear to 4". Hand, fist, & offwidth past a roof.
C. The Art of War, 10, 1p, 100', 9 bolts. Arete.
D. The Enemy Within, 10-, 1p, 2 bolts & gear to 2". Squeeze chimney.
E. Thus Us, 9, 1p, 75', gear, extra 3" to 4". Hand & fist crack.
F. War Horse, 10, 1p, 75', 3 bolts & gear to 1.5". RFDs.
G. Ancient Fright, 10, 1p, 5 bolts. Steep face.
H. Resurrection, 9, 1p, 2 bolts & gear to 3". Crack & face to summit of Avalon.
I. Ancient Sight, 8+, 1p, 100', gear to 3". Cracks and face right of H.
J. Ancient Light, 10, 2p, 150', P1 bolts, bolts & gear. Traverse under a roof to an arete->Pillar to face.
K. Blade, 10+, 1p, 90', gear to 3". RFD R of p2 of J.

L. Old Dragon Ballz, 10, 1p, 40', gear.

Routes near the West Gully:
M1. Ghost Ship, 10-, 1p, 90', gear to 3". Left crack.
M2. Ship of Fools, 10, 1p, 90', gear to 3.5". Middle crack.
M3. Mystery Tour, 9, 1p, 90', gear to 5". LFD on right.
N. Mystery Ship, 10, 75', 6 bolts. Roof to face to headwall.

Getting There

From the Wall of the Goddess, drop down to the bottom of a boulder-filled gully. This is the West Gully. Crack Land begins just past the gully.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crack Land

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 30
Crack Love II
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 33
Mystery Tour
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Crack Love
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
The Enemy Within
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Ancient Light
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
The Art Of War
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Blade
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crack Love II
 30
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Mystery Tour
 33
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Crack Love
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Enemy Within
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ancient Light
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Art Of War
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blade
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Crack Land »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Avalon is a fairly complicated crag consisting of 3 large tiers set off by two broad ledge systems that span the whole crag horizontally.

The First Tier is not too formidable and is host to 9 routes that all face west on two different levels.

The Second Tier is more difficult to visualize and is host to 33 routes on a series of walls and slabs facing west and south that are stepped upward from left to right beginning with the Tarot Wall and ending with Wall of the Dead.

The Third Tier is host to 29 routes on five distinct facets: The Northeast Face, Wall of the Dragon, the West (or Upper) Gully, Wall of the Goddess and the Southwest Buttress with the route Black Tiger.

The broad Northeast Face includes the following 15 routes (all of which face northeast):

Crack Love
Crack Love II
Crack Love III
The Art of War
The Enemy Within
Thus Us
War Horse
Ancient Fright
Resurrection
Ancient Light
Blade
Ghost Ship
Ship of Fools
Mystery Tour
Mystery Ship

The West (Upper) Gully is host to five routes. To the right of Mystery Ship, the wall bends around to face west and climbs to a notch just east from the balanced rock atop the Wall of the Goddess. A fairly amazing chockstone or fallen block hovers over the gully to the south of the notch.

The west-facing Wall of the Dragon is located directly above the West Gully and is host to just two routes, or three counting the finish to Blade.

The Wall of the Goddess faces west and features several short (but good) routes.

Finally the Southwest Buttress has just two routes on very good rock.

All this should probably be listed under Avalon. I laid it out here to clarify the extent of the routes on the Northeast Face. For that matter the whole Northeast Face could appropriately be called CRACK LAND, since crack climbing is most of what it has to offer.

This should probably result in some minor changes in the outline of routes on this website for Avalon.

Richard Rossiter Jul 17, 2006
I 'schwacked up to Crack Land yesterday to check it out. As many have said, there was an impressive amount of work done to create this area.

We made the mistake of coming up to Crack Land from the left (East) side of tier two. There was a faint trail, but it was mostly bushwhacking. Looking at pictures now it looks like you can access this area by going to the third tier on the better trail up the right side (passing Wall of the Dead), and crossing the ledge system below the third tier.

We didn't print out the MP info for the area before going (it wasn't the original destination), so we were "using the force". We ended up doing Thus Us and War Horse. The base of these routes is a tough place to hang out. It is a highly vegetated (stinging nettles), steep, loose hillside. RR (and others?) have done a lot of work to even establish a trail in this lush area, but I think we could do a bit more work at the base of this area. I'd be game to go do a bit of work up there this summer if anyone else wants to help. Jul 9, 2009
JVonD
Longmont, CO
JVonD   Longmont, CO
Joey T, Tree, and Tim Brown climbing in Eldorado Canyon and Boulder Canyon's Crack Land.
youtube.com/watch?v=ZMIcxRx… Mar 2, 2010
This is a really good area. Definitely worth a trip, especially if you like climbing cracks. I think it has cleaned up well.

Thanks to everyone who put in the time, money, and effort to develop this area! Sep 23, 2012

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