Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, June 2006
Page Views: 944 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns have added yet another new route on the Northeast Face of Avalon. War Horse follows a line about 15' right of Thus Us, and is identified by three bolts heading up a face into a right-facing dihedral.

Start at the wide crack at the beginning of Thus Us, and angle up right to a bolt on the face about 20' up. Be careful making the first clip. Continue up past the second bolt into a right-facing corner with a flared hand crack at the third bolt. Make some difficult moves (10c or 10d) past the bolt to a ledge on the left. Continue up another right-facing corner with a thin crack (gear) to a tree with slings and rap rings. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree.

War Horse seemed slightly harder than The Art of War. Since the route is so new (rock dust below the bolts from recent drilling), it is still a bit dirty. My partner wire brushed the route extensively on rappel after we were finished climbing.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts plus small-to-medium gear. Bring some small wired nuts and cams from small Aliens to a #1 Camalot.

I placed a blue/green hybrid Alien just above the third bolt and a green Alien on the ledge above that. In the upper corner with the thin crack, I placed two small wired nuts (BD #5 and #7 stoppers), and a yellow Alien. I placed a #.75 Camalot to protect the last move to the anchor (could have used a #1 Camalot here instead).

At the top of the pitch there is a tree with slings and rap rings (the anchor for Thus Us), and a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree. Belay at the tree, or lower off the tree or the new 2-bolt anchor.