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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, June 2006
Page Views: 180 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns have added yet another new route on the Northeast Face of Avalon. War Horse follows a line about 15' right of Thus Us, and is identified by three bolts heading up a face into a right-facing dihedral.

Start at the wide crack at the beginning of Thus Us, and angle up right to a bolt on the face about 20' up. Be careful making the first clip. Continue up past the second bolt into a right-facing corner with a flared hand crack at the third bolt. Make some difficult moves (10c or 10d) past the bolt to a ledge on the left. Continue up another right-facing corner with a thin crack (gear) to a tree with slings and rap rings. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree.

War Horse seemed slightly harder than The Art of War. Since the route is so new (rock dust below the bolts from recent drilling), it is still a bit dirty. My partner wire brushed the route extensively on rappel after we were finished climbing.

Protection

3 bolts plus small-to-medium gear. Bring some small wired nuts and cams from small Aliens to a #1 Camalot.

I placed a blue/green hybrid Alien just above the third bolt and a green Alien on the ledge above that. In the upper corner with the thin crack, I placed two small wired nuts (BD #5 and #7 stoppers), and a yellow Alien. I placed a #.75 Camalot to protect the last move to the anchor (could have used a #1 Camalot here instead).

At the top of the pitch there is a tree with slings and rap rings (the anchor for Thus Us), and a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree. Belay at the tree, or lower off the tree or the new 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
Don't forget the small cams, Alien-sized, on this one. Our leader had to have some lowered to him from someone at the anchor. Jun 21, 2013
Bruce Pech
  5.10c
Bruce Pech  
  5.10c
Pebby & Richard -- Thx for replacing the anchors. You guys (and Bob D, Vaino, Dan H et. al) should ask Culp and Neptune's to collect donations for the $$$ you've spent on bolts and hangers over the past several years. Sep 23, 2006
Pebby Johns
Boulder, Colorado
Pebby Johns   Boulder, Colorado
Bruce, sorry to hear the ring hangers are missing. But not to fear, (as usual) we will take care of it and replace the missing hardware. Thank you for the information concerning this route.
Pebby Johns Aug 25, 2006
Bruce Pech
  5.10c
Bruce Pech  
  5.10c
I actually enjoyed War Horse more than the Art of War. Ron's gear recommendations are excellent (although a blue Alien works as well as a hybrid Alien). After the first placement just above the third bolt, the trad climbing is never harder than 9 or 9+.

However, as Mikeneu noted, some expletive deleted stole the hangers and rings from the new bolt anchor. Until they're replaced you have to: (1) belay/rap or lower from the slings and rap rings at the Thus Us tree; or (2) sling the tree for pro and climb diagonally up left to the last two bolts and anchors on the Art of War before lowering (doable with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare). Aug 11, 2006

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