Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, 2005
Page Views: 1,632 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. These 3 climbs were once organized (called Crack Land) under a sub-area for the Northeast Face (now renamed Crack Land). Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.

These routes are located on the NW side of the Third Tier of Avalon just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.

See Dawn onboulderclimbs.com. Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the ledge above the second tier of Avalon. Continue around to the east past a gully full of boulders. Descend past two obvious dihedrals to a ledge that runs all the way across the northeast face beneath Ancient Light. Look for a bolt above a low roof, just left of the two dihedrals. The route is visible from here. Climb over the roof and follow the line of bolts to a sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

QDs only. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Lower off.

Photos