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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cleaned extensively and climbed by Richard Rossiter and Joan “Pebby” Johns, July 2006.
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.

These routes are located on the NW side of the Third Tier of Avalon just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.

Before committing to the middle crack (Ship of Fools), climb a right-facing corner to a small ledge, pull left and jam a hand crack to the right side of a roof. Pull right and jam a final crack to good ledges and the belay tree.

Location

Begin from the ledge, 10 feet left of Mystery Ship .

Protection

Nuts and cams from 0.5 inch to 3.0 inches. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a tree.

Photos

Bruce Pech
  5.10a/b
Bruce Pech  
  5.10a/b
Ghost Ship felt a little testy for .10a although I may have erred by face climbing a foot left of the start of the crack -- which forced me to do an insecure blind placement before stepping back right into the crack itself. Bring 5-8 pieces from a yellow Alien to a #3 Friend (with an emphasis on 1" - 2 1/2"), more if you plan to protect the first 30' of 5.4 - 5.6 rock. Aug 11, 2006