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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 6/08
Page Views: 531 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Continued from Ancient Fright, this adds on a trad extension to the summit directly going up and ever-so-slightly right in cracks and pockets to add up to 45 meters of climbing. The belay on top is cord on large boulders and a tricam.

The route has a few cracks dug out for pro, and the rock is mostly solid, but expect lichen and dirt here and there. While not terribly dirty, it has not been cleaned by any stretch of the imagination.

Location

The name of this route is a reference to being half blind. After doing P1 of Ancient Fright, I could not see where Resurrection went, so I simply continued directly up the face past the anchors, going another 80 feet or so to a sub-summit, perhaps 13 meters right of Resurrection. This passes a smaller pine tree and then a larger one, climbing with both just to your right.

Protection

The route was done on a single run of cams to 3" and a red tricam, but it could certainly take more gear.

Photos

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You gave this a star!? Haha! I'm sure in time it could clean up into one. Not bad moves or bad rock, just presently very dirty. Jun 20, 2008