Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns (Pebby), 2005
Page Views: 1,338 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

ANCIENT FRIGHT is located on the remote NE face of the Third Tier of Avalon, well around the corner from the Wall of the Goddess. The route ascends a steep wall some 30 feet left from the top of Ancient Light. Approach via Ancient Light or climb in from the left (class 4).

Climb steep and very well-formed rock past 5 bolts. The higher you go, the harder it gets. Lower off, 70 feet.

Resurrection continues from the top of this route to the magnificent summit of Avalon (5.9), but you need gear up to 3 inches, q.v.

Protection

Bring only QDs. New Fixe stainless steel all the way. 5 bolts to a 2-ring anchor. Lower off 70 feet.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
This route deserves its 10c rating and not the 10b rating it is given in the D'Antonio book. It is sustained at the 10c grade on small sidepull holds. May 13, 2013
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Bob D'Antonio's book called this 10b. I found it pretty hard by Boulder Canyon standards. I also placed a yellow Mastercam going from 3rd to 4th bolt.

Prod. Sep 16, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
A good pitch and solid for the grade. Balance on sidepulls to make your way through the crux. There's a blue Alien placement to supplement the bolts. No need for gear above the anchor if you are making your way to resurrection. Aug 19, 2007
The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully.

I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell, it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek.

I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree.

FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ringe anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter Oct 5, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
A steep and sustained pitch; hard climbing from the third to the fifth bolts with minimal stances. The crux is at the fourth bolt. We continued up to the tree at the start of Resurrection instead of lowering from the 2-bolt anchor.

We approached via Ancient Light, a good pitch with excellent airy climbing on the upper arete. Aug 30, 2005