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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, June 2006
Page Views: 1,384 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

There was not a particular crux, unless it was the more physical moves off of solid hand-jams. Good crack technique helps, I suppose.

This climb is fairly long for Avalon and has pretty good moves. I'll give it 2 stars now, but I bet it will clean up to get 3.
This route required very extensive cleaning, done By Richard, Pebby, and Bruno. Due to the extensive cleaning that was done, little rubble remains, but there is plenty of dirt on the route that has yet to settle- if you do it soon, assist by taking a brush and cleaning on your way back down.

Location

This route is on the left face of the third tier (NE aspect) of the cliff, practically reaching Wizard Rock. It is just right of The Art Of War.

To approach it, hike past the Wall of The Goddess and continue around the corner to the east, passing Charon's Boat/Merlin's Enigma. Go along the cliff, heading to Wizard Rock, for another 100 Meters. The trail becomes soft and steep near this climb. Look up the rock to see a primarily left-facing and left-leaning hand-to-fist crack on the upper half. There is a large tree above the route with a sling anchor.

Protection

A standard trad rack with extra pieces in the 3-4" range. The anchor up top is presently a single sling with 2 biners on the tree. In time this will need to be beefed up. I'd add a second sling and a rapid link in favor of the biners, but I was up there without any before I knew what was needed.
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
  5.9
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
  5.9
Good climb, though I wish I'd have had more big gear. Did it with a #3 and a #4, could have used at least 1 more of either or both to really feel comfortable. Sep 3, 2012
FYI. There is a new 2-ring-bolt anchor at the top left of the ENEMY WITHIN as of 2 July 2007. This anchor has a very good stance and serves the finish to THUS US as well. Jul 16, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
There was a 2-bolt rap anchor just up and right of the tree; see . Hope it's still there. Jun 8, 2007
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
Damn vandals. Bring slings and rap rings/quick links if you go up there. Unless you like that nice piny scent on your rope. Jun 8, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A good crack climb. I used four big cams (1 #3, 1 #3.5, and 2 #4 Camalots) and two #2 Camalots, and was glad to have them; bolder leaders can get by with less.

My partner added a second sling and rap rings to the anchor at the tree atop the climb. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor not far up and right of the tree. Jun 16, 2006
THUS US is a good crack climb a few feet right of the obvious chimney THE ENEMY WITHIN. This route required extensive cleaning and has no bolts at all. Begin from the obvious slot at the bottom of ENEMY. Step right after a few feet and keep going straight up. Gear requirements: 0.5 inches to 4 inches. Aliens and Camalots. No other nuts are needed. Hands, fists and arm bars. Lower off 75 feet from a tree at the top. Jun 12, 2006