Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, June 2006
Page Views: 2,256 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

41 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There was not a particular crux, unless it was the more physical moves off of solid hand-jams. Good crack technique helps, I suppose.

This climb is fairly long for Avalon and has pretty good moves. I'll give it 2 stars now, but I bet it will clean up to get 3.
This route required very extensive cleaning, done By Richard, Pebby, and Bruno. Due to the extensive cleaning that was done, little rubble remains, but there is plenty of dirt on the route that has yet to settle- if you do it soon, assist by taking a brush and cleaning on your way back down.

Location Suggest change

This route is on the left face of the third tier (NE aspect) of the cliff, practically reaching Wizard Rock. It is just right of The Art Of War.

To approach it, hike past the Wall of The Goddess and continue around the corner to the east, passing Charon's Boat/Merlin's Enigma. Go along the cliff, heading to Wizard Rock, for another 100 Meters. The trail becomes soft and steep near this climb. Look up the rock to see a primarily left-facing and left-leaning hand-to-fist crack on the upper half. There is a large tree above the route with a sling anchor.

Protection Suggest change

A standard trad rack with extra pieces in the 3-4" range. The anchor up top is presently a single sling with 2 biners on the tree. In time this will need to be beefed up. I'd add a second sling and a rapid link in favor of the biners, but I was up there without any before I knew what was needed.