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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, and Bruno Haché
Page Views: 2,812 total, 20/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The Sequel. This route begins 8 feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love. Hike up a short ramp, then climb a finger and hand crack straight up to a roof. Pull the roof via hand jams and continue up a widening, slightly flared crack to the top. It is not very difficult, but it is a real crack climb on excellent rock.

Location

Crack Love II is the penultimate route on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. It begins a few feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love and perhaps 80 feet up and left from The Art of War.

Protection

Gear only from 0.5 inch to 3.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor with rings at the top. Lower off 75'.
Bill Mustard
Silt, Colorado
Bill Mustard   Silt, Colorado
My brother Stevie and I are going capsule style up this bad boy. May 8, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9-
This is a good line, a little easier than the main Crack love. A good place to teach someone how to hand-jam. Jun 21, 2013
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Nicer line than the main Crack Love. Sep 3, 2012
A 2-bolt ring anchor is now in {as of 7-10-06) at the top of Crack Love II. The anchor also serves the finish to Crack Love III, a few feet to the left. A good stance affords easy threading. Lower off, 75 feet. Jul 18, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Another fun crack climb; a little wider than Crack Love, but just about as hard. Turning the roof into the wide crack near the top was the hardest spot. Seemed like 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.

I sewed it up with a #11 BD Stopper, blue tricam, green and yellow Aliens, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, and 2 #4 Camalots.

There was a tree with two slings and a locking biner at the top; I didn't see a 2-bolt anchor. Jun 26, 2006