Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
Page Views: 2,047 total, 15/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.

These routes are located on the NW side of the Third Tier of Avalon just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.

Tape up for the Mystery Tour. Begin as for the previous two routes, but stay right and gain a stance beneath a magnificent, left-facing dihedral with a perfect crack. Jam to the top of the dihedral, then step left and climb the final crack for Ship of Fools. Hands, fists and arm bars. Bitchin'.

Location

Mystery Tour is the right of 3 cracks at the far right side of the Crack Land. Begin 10 feet left of Mystery Ship.

Protection

Mostly cams from 1 inch to 4 inches. A 5-inch piece can be placed in a short offwidth section. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a good tree.
Keith W
  5.9-
Keith W  
  5.9-
Fun climb! Lots of ways to approach it. I was able to get up using the crack and also just stemming oustide. Only need up to a #3 Camalot, though a #4 might calm yer nerves in the wide part. As of today, the tree anchor has some nice chord and two rap links. May 21, 2016
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Fun route! Steep dihedral with jugs to start and then lower angle perfect hands to the top. This is also a great climb for a hot summer day, as the crack is shaded and blows out cool air and making you never want to return to the ground!

Webbing and rapide link on tree still in good condition. Jun 27, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
I replaced the webbing on the descent tree on 5-12-13. May 13, 2013
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Great line especially of you stay in the crack. Wish it was longer. I brought a #4 and used it, but it is not necessary. 2 #3s would be nice though.

Prod. Sep 16, 2012
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A nice, physical corner crack -- too bad it's not longer. Two #2 Camalots and two #3 Camalots protect the widest sections well -- no need for anything larger. Smaller gear useful below and above the wide part. No need to tape up -- the crack isn't too rough.

Belay at the tree at the top and bring your partner up. Then do Dragon Fly and Dragon Slayer which start at this tree.

Thanks to Richard and Pebby for their hard work to open up these lines. Jul 1, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
I hauled up several boat anchors because it looked wide from the ground, but never placed the really big stuff. Some #3 Camalots and a couple #2 Camalots would sew the climb up. Jul 1, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Better gear and better moves than it appears from the ground. A fun climb overall. Too bad the lower angle stuff at the bottom is not more like the top corner. No wide gear necessary, despite appearances. Jun 20, 2008