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Routes in Crack Land
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Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mystery Tour T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 283 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Rossiter on Aug 27, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
This route is on the remote NE face (Crack Land) of the Third Tier of Avalon. Approach via the route ANCIENT FRIGHT. Instead of lowering off from the anchors, continue up and left to a 2-bolt anchor and belay. Climb an obvious crack to a ledge with a tree (5.7). Climb the steep wall above the ledge (5.9, 2 bolts) and finish with a short crack. Lower off from a 2-ring anchor or climb to the spectacular summit and belay, then walk off to the east and north.
Boulder, CO
Belay from the top anchor and bring your partner up, then scramble another 5' up to the summit of Avalon, an airy and beautiful place.
To descend, we rappelled back to the tree at the start. There is a rap anchor on this tree (two sling and a locking biner). We rappelled from here to the start of Ancient Fright. The 4th-class downclimb looked a little hairy, so we went over to the anchor atop Ancient Light and rappelled back to the ground from there.
If you're looking for some adventure climbing in Boulder Canyon, check the combination of Ancient Light, Ancient Fright, and Resurrection. The summit of Avalon is a neat place to visit.
We applied a wire brush and whisk broom on our rappel descent, but the routes could still use more cleaning. Aug 30, 2005
Boulder, CO
I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek.
I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree.
FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ring anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter Jul 3, 2007
Boulder, CO
It was a Saturday and we saw nobody all day, until we went back down near Ripcord, where there were 10 - 15 people. Aug 19, 2007