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Routes in Crack Land

Ancient Fright S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ancient Light T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Sight T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Art Of War, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Love II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack Love III T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Enemy Within, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghost Ship T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Ship S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Resurrection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thus Us T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Horse T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Page Views: 245 total, 2/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is on the remote NE face (Crack Land) of the Third Tier of Avalon. Approach via the route ANCIENT FRIGHT. Instead of lowering off from the anchors, continue up and left to a 2-bolt anchor and belay. Climb an obvious crack to a ledge with a tree (5.7). Climb the steep wall above the ledge (5.9, 2 bolts) and finish with a short crack. Lower off from a 2-ring anchor or climb to the spectacular summit and belay, then walk off to the east and north.

Protection

2-bolt belay/rappel anchor at the start. Gear up to 3 inches. Two bolts in the middle. More gear with a 2-ring anchor at the top, or climb to the summit and walk off.
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I recommend Ancient Light P1 to Ancient Fright and the Resurrection to the top. A fun way to summit Avalon (which is really nice), but this pitch isn't great in itself.

It was a Saturday and we saw nobody all day, until we went back down near Ripcord, where there were 10 - 15 people. Aug 19, 2007
The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone as of October 2005. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully.

I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek.

I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree.

FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ring anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter Jul 3, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
In June 2006, Richard Rossiter added a 2-bolt anchor near the start of Resurrection. You can rappel from this anchor to the ledge at the start of Ancient Fright with a 60m rope. Jul 17, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A worthwhile route to the summit of Avalon after doing Ancient Fright. I placed gear from a yellow Alien to a #2 Camalot. The initial crack is fun 5.7 hands. The steep 5.9 face, protected by 2 bolts, can be made a little easier by stemming off the tree.

Belay from the top anchor and bring your partner up, then scramble another 5' up to the summit of Avalon, an airy and beautiful place.

To descend, we rappelled back to the tree at the start. There is a rap anchor on this tree (two sling and a locking biner). We rappelled from here to the start of Ancient Fright. The 4th-class downclimb looked a little hairy, so we went over to the anchor atop Ancient Light and rappelled back to the ground from there.

If you're looking for some adventure climbing in Boulder Canyon, check the combination of Ancient Light, Ancient Fright, and Resurrection. The summit of Avalon is a neat place to visit.

We applied a wire brush and whisk broom on our rappel descent, but the routes could still use more cleaning. Aug 30, 2005