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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 713 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

I am entering this route from a few vague notes recorded in my book from Dec of '02. It does not seem to appear in the Swain guidebooks, or at least I could not reconcile it with anything until the Handren Book, which clearly showed it to be Party Down, a bolted "5.12." It felt a lot easier, but I admit that the grade noted is only my guess.
To the right of the climbs Cut Loose and Foot Loose, but well left of the pocketed wall and climb Marshall Amp, there is a rounded boulder, nearly ball-shaped with 3 bolts on the face leading to a 2-bolt anchor. Climb this strenuous line to the anchor and lower off. Most of the holds are odd horizontals and pockets, but a few edges give more pump. Short, but OK fun if you are in the area.

Location

On the S. Face of a ball-shaped boulder there are 3 bolts leading to an anchor...

Protection

5 draws. 3 for bolts, 2 for the top.

Photos

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Mark Doliner
  5.12a
Mark Doliner  
  5.12a
I agree--V3/V4. Apr 5, 2014
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
Roped boulder problem.. I would agree. "Red Rocks : A Climber's Guide" by Jerry Handren gives it 5.12b and only 25feet.

This route is definitely shorter than 40feet. Much shorter. Mar 14, 2010
iancevans
  5.12a
iancevans  
  5.12a
Basically a roped boulder problem. Feels V3/4ish, so 12a doesn't seem like a stretch. Hard to give a route grade, though.

I thought it was very fun with nice movement on neat holds. Well worth climbing. Better with the proper low start. Nov 18, 2009