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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,697 total, 28/month
Shared By: lenore sparks on Jan 12, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Slab route right of One Eyed Jacks

Protection

8 or so bolts. Anchors

Photos

Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11b
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11b
Definitely my premiere 11b at red rocks so far. Grade is accurate. Only ways it's 10d would be to have tiny fingers. Feb 26, 2017
AST
AST  
This route seemed really easy for 11b. There was one slightly awkward bit getting off the starting overhang and established onto the face/slab and then one minor hard move in the middle. Other than that, it felt very easy.

With no prior knowledge, if someone had told me it was 11a or even 10d, I wouldn't have argued. One eyed jack seemed harder.

In any event, fun route. Nov 19, 2013
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
Fun route, unfortunately most of the bolts are currently coming out of the wall. The first bolt is fine, the second bolt is spinning with about .5 of an inch exposed behind the hanger, the next three or four bolts all have about a centimeter on the bottom half exposed. The top half of the hanger is still touching the wall in most cases, but they are far less than confidence inspiring. My partner weighted one and it didn't go anywhere, but wasn't psyched to be taking whippers on these.

It looks like the installer may have drilled the bolts at a downward angle and this may have been the reason why they are exposing themselves, however that is pure uneducated speculation on my part. I personally wouldn't be psyched to get on this again until the bolt situation is ratified, which is a shame because it is a good route. Just waiting for the education on how to replace and I would gladly put the time in... Mar 2, 2013
One of the most fun routes I did @ Red Rocks. Apr 1, 2012
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
agreed. Jan 17, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
This route is located just right and around the corner from One-Eyed Jacks, and is one of the better technical crimp climbs at the grade in Red Rock- well worth doing.

edit: as of 2/11/11, this route is equipped with mussy hooks. Jan 12, 2010