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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,084 total · 45/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 27, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The way I've always done this route is to just continue from above Stratocater Direct, this makes it a sport climb. Alternately you can start in the corner to the right at 5.10 and you need some gear.

From the Direct anchors head up to a higher anchor and belay. Power up the sculpted arete on really cool wind carved holds. Finish by doing a wierd "mantle" into a scoop/ fin of rock that curves out behind you.

Great position, cool movement and holds.


Climbs the prominent arete on the right hand side of the Stratocaster Wall. Starting in a corner to the right or on Stratocaster Direct.


Bolts and bolted anchor if using the Direct start, otherwise gear is needed for the first pitch.


P1 was a bit awkward and includes a non-trivial unprotected traverse to gain the bolts. P2 is a fantastic climb on super sculpted holds. Mar 17, 2013
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
we had a mini epic 30 feet off the ground. We couldn't get past the traverse after the chimney. If you need a number 3 nut you know where it is. Nov 17, 2013
Epic at 30 feet! Keep your phone handy to call SAR when attempting this pitch.

The start is a total grovel-fest. Unprotected belly flopping / worm squirming / mantle to get off the ground, then (after a rest) your reward is an awkward flaring chimney protected by as many #00 - .25 cams as you want to put in. I think I had 6 in the space of about 3 feet.

Falling off the exit, even with gear at your knees would be painful.

I have to assume the second pitch has one of the most lopsided ratios of "awesomeness vs number of people who actually try it" possible, due to needing to either climb the aforementioned grovel or the 12c direct just to get to it. Yuck. Nov 19, 2013
Kyle Sherby
Redding, Ca
Kyle Sherby   Redding, Ca
This climb must have been re-bolted since the previous comments. There was no hideous run-out, just a clip on good holds at the 3rd that you don't want to botch. The starting chimney was bolted and really fun. If you can chicken-wing and mantle up the start then use chimney technique up the flaring gap it's really enjoyable. The rest of the climbing is just phenomenal. Excellent movement on a variety of holds. The angle pitches back and the climbing remains sustained and exciting. The bolts are spread just enough to make you think about it. One of the best single pitches I have done in red rocks, although it felt harder than Sweet Pain, Quicksand, or Helltown.

The only draw back was was the sandy ledges and 1 loose looking flake, tho it wasn't bad.

70m rope reaches the top easy. You're remiss if you skip this climb. Jan 2, 2018

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