Type: Sport, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,545 total · 48/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 27, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The way I've always done this route is to just continue from above Stratocater Direct, this makes it a sport climb. Alternately you can start in the corner to the right at 5.10 and you need some gear.

From the Direct anchors head up to a higher anchor and belay. Power up the sculpted arete on really cool wind carved holds. Finish by doing a wierd "mantle" into a scoop/ fin of rock that curves out behind you.

Great position, cool movement and holds.

Location

Climbs the prominent arete on the right hand side of the Stratocaster Wall. Starting in a corner to the right or on Stratocaster Direct.

Protection

Bolts and bolted anchor if using the Direct start, otherwise gear is needed for the first pitch.

Photos

BrianWS
  5.11d
BrianWS  
  5.11d
P1 was a bit awkward and includes a non-trivial unprotected traverse to gain the bolts. P2 is a fantastic climb on super sculpted holds. Mar 17, 2013
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
we had a mini epic 30 feet off the ground. We couldn't get past the traverse after the chimney. If you need a number 3 nut you know where it is. Nov 17, 2013
AST
AST  
Epic at 30 feet! Keep your phone handy to call SAR when attempting this pitch.

The start is a total grovel-fest. Unprotected belly flopping / worm squirming / mantle to get off the ground, then (after a rest) your reward is an awkward flaring chimney protected by as many #00 - .25 cams as you want to put in. I think I had 6 in the space of about 3 feet.

Falling off the exit, even with gear at your knees would be painful.

I have to assume the second pitch has one of the most lopsided ratios of "awesomeness vs number of people who actually try it" possible, due to needing to either climb the aforementioned grovel or the 12c direct just to get to it. Yuck. Nov 19, 2013
Kyle Sherby
Redding, Ca
  5.12a
Kyle Sherby   Redding, Ca
  5.12a
This climb must have been re-bolted since the previous comments. There was no hideous run-out, just a clip on good holds at the 3rd that you don't want to botch. The starting chimney was bolted and really fun. If you can chicken-wing and mantle up the start then use chimney technique up the flaring gap it's really enjoyable. The rest of the climbing is just phenomenal. Excellent movement on a variety of holds. The angle pitches back and the climbing remains sustained and exciting. The bolts are spread just enough to make you think about it. One of the best single pitches I have done in red rocks, although it felt harder than Sweet Pain, Quicksand, or Helltown.

The only draw back was was the sandy ledges and 1 loose looking flake, tho it wasn't bad.

70m rope reaches the top easy. You're remiss if you skip this climb. Jan 2, 2018
Andrew Chen
Washington, District of Col…
 
Andrew Chen   Washington, District of Col…
 
Incredible aesthetic and even better climbing! As with what Kyle said, this route has been retrobolted (running right of and skipping the original first anchors) so no gear is needed. I climbed this in one pitch with a 70m and was able to clean with rope left to spare. Jan 3, 2019