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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: (?)
Page Views: 1,942 total · 24/month
Shared By: Darren in Vegas on Jan 9, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This thing gets my vote for the best 5.10 sport climb in Red Rock. Super long, technical and sustained, this route seems to go on forever.
The first two thirds of the route features vertical climbing with postive edges. Once at the top third, the angle eases back, but the difficulty does not. Technical footwork up the lower angled rock will see you to the chains.

Location

This route is located on the tall black wall before the Stratocaster area proper. It is the leftmost route on the wall, just left of Flame Ranger.

Protection

13! bolts, chains

Photos

Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
Great pumpy route with good sustained climbing. Definately one of the better 10s I've done in Red Rock Mar 22, 2012
Tradiban  
 
WTF? This climb is pretty much junk. Just about every hold was suspect and it only got worse as you get higher. In addition there was what looked like a mess of glue that was mixed too thin and then ran all over. Not to mention the moves weren't too great either. Nov 9, 2012
That is so weird. I didn't think people did that kind of thing in red rock. I guess the end (a mess) justifies the means (anything goes, except ground-up and good style) Nov 29, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
Easily the best 5.10 sport pitch in Red Rock. Didn't see any glue mess, all the holds were quite good (except maybe one or two)- both in quality and incut. 30m of pure face climbing bliss. Well worth doing and a great warm-up for the harder stuff at Stratocaster. Dec 21, 2013
Fearless1
Phoenix, AZ
Fearless1   Phoenix, AZ
I really enjoyed this route! Of course the sandstone can be delicate at times and may break if you climb like a Clydesdale. There is a nice rest before the crux but otherwise the climbing is sustained. I agree that it is a good warm up for Flame Ranger and Tier of The Titans right next to it. The bolts are safely spaced and would be a great route to try for anyone breaking into the grade. 10b in my humble opinion. Feb 13, 2014
Choncho  
We snapped a hold or two, but there's plenty more. Pretty cool route overall. Jan 21, 2015
Graham Kolb
Minneapolis, MN
Graham Kolb   Minneapolis, MN
Can this be done with a 60 meter rope? Apr 27, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
Yes, but tie a knot in the end of your rope. Apr 27, 2016
Scott360
Las Vegas
Scott360   Las Vegas
I believe this is the same climb as "Flameblower" in the Handren Guide II (p. 392). Of it he says, "One of the better sport routes of its grade in the Calico Hills." That, plus a John Wilder endorsement, speaks volumes. Stellar climb--well bolted/protected and good line. Looking forward to sending it. Nov 20, 2016

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