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Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (05) Sandstone…
> Calico Hills Trail
> Stratocaster Area
Nevada Book
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Stratocaster Area
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Ancient Aria S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Break Loose T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Choad Hard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choad Hard (1st Anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cut Loose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flame Ranger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying V S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nevada Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pablo Diablo Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spikes and Twine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Split Ends S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Infinitive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Split Lip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swedish Erotica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tier of Titans S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | John Taylor, John Williamson. 10/1973 |
| Page Views: | 4,198 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | John Hegyes on Mar 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Nevada Book is a great climb, much in the same vein as Great Red Book, a route with which it shares a first ascensionist, John Williamson.
The first pitch starts on top of the large boulder and goes up the easy, right-leaning ramp for about 60 feet to a fixed anchor (bolt, nut).
The second pitch starts off with the crux immediately off the anchor. This chimney section is pretty poorly protected, but after a move or two, there is a bomber hold followed by some good pro. Continue up the mellow corner, past a tricky bulge, to the top of the feature where you build an anchor.
Descend by walking to the left, down the Red Heat Gully. There is a single rope rappel from a bush.
The first pitch starts on top of the large boulder and goes up the easy, right-leaning ramp for about 60 feet to a fixed anchor (bolt, nut).
The second pitch starts off with the crux immediately off the anchor. This chimney section is pretty poorly protected, but after a move or two, there is a bomber hold followed by some good pro. Continue up the mellow corner, past a tricky bulge, to the top of the feature where you build an anchor.
Descend by walking to the left, down the Red Heat Gully. There is a single rope rappel from a bush.
Location
Nevada Book is located in the large left-facing corner about fifty feet to the right of the off-width route Split Crack. There are three bolted face climbs immediately to the left of Nevada Book.
Approach as per Running Man Wall: from Sandstone Quarry parking lot, follow a trail south-east next to the road until a path drops down into a gully past a mushroom-shaped boulder. Climb a water trough past numerous tanks up to a giant ledge and follow this contour south past the Boschton Marathon Block. Nevada Book is on the far right side of the Running Man formations.
Approach as per Running Man Wall: from Sandstone Quarry parking lot, follow a trail south-east next to the road until a path drops down into a gully past a mushroom-shaped boulder. Climb a water trough past numerous tanks up to a giant ledge and follow this contour south past the Boschton Marathon Block. Nevada Book is on the far right side of the Running Man formations.
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