Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Taylor, John Williamson. 10/1973
Page Views: 3,010 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Nevada Book is a great climb, much in the same vein as Great Red Book, a route with which it shares a first ascensionist, John Williamson.

The first pitch starts on top of the large boulder and goes up the easy, right-leaning ramp for about 60 feet to a fixed anchor (bolt, nut).

The second pitch starts off with the crux immediately off the anchor. This chimney section is pretty poorly protected, but after a move or two, there is a bomber hold followed by some good pro. Continue up the mellow corner, past a tricky bulge, to the top of the feature where you build an anchor.

Descend by walking to the left, down the Red Heat Gully. There is a single rope rappel from a bush.

Location

Nevada Book is located in the large left-facing corner about fifty feet to the right of the off-width route Split Crack. There are three bolted face climbs immediately to the left of Nevada Book.

Approach as per Running Man Wall: from Sandstone Quarry parking lot, follow a trail south-east next to the road until a path drops down into a gully past a mushroom-shaped boulder. Climb a water trough past numerous tanks up to a giant ledge and follow this contour south past the Boschton Marathon Block. Nevada Book is on the far right side of the Running Man formations.

Protection

We used up to a #4 C4 Camalot. The runout may be mitigated with a #6 Camalot or a #4 Big Bro.

Photos

Great climb!

There is some chossy rock to deal with.

The descent was a blast and involved a bit of fun, easy down climbing, and we even got to squeeze down a narrow tunnel! Reminded me of my early hiking days in Red Rock, searching through the maze of beautiful sandstone to find our way up or down, and loving every minute of it. Mar 24, 2006
Lenier
 
Lenier  
 
This route is no longer in the big printed guidebook and it's probably for the best. Went up this last week and would not recommend. Unclear what the top of the route is for purposes of building a bomber anchor. Ended up running it out about 60 feet to the very top, but in hindsight would have stopped after the last bulge. Descent down Red Heat Gully is dicey/adventurous. Ended up slinging some rocks jammed in the narrow tunnel and rappelling there to the anchor halfway down the gully. The actual climbing after the first anchor was fun, but a 220ft climb for 30 feet of cool climbing is a little eh. 3 days ago