All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Sandstone Quarry > Calico Hills Trail > Stratocaster Area

One-Eyed Jacks

Name: One-Eyed Jacks
Rating: 2.7

5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Stratocaster Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ancient Aria S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Break Loose T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Choad Hard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Choad Hard (1st Anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cut Loose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Flame Ranger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flying V S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nevada Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Pablo Diablo Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Spikes and Twine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Split Ends S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Split Infinitive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Split Lip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Swedish Erotica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tier of Titans S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
GPS:	36.15852, -115.4401
FA:	Don Burroughs and Alan Busby, 1993
Page Views:	4,644 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This is a great warm-up for heading to Stratocaster Direct or the Choad climbs. This is an overhanging jug haul, with a few crimpy moves towards the top. There's a great rest in the middle of the route to de-pump. Be a little careful as some of the slopey feet were a little sandy. The Swain book lists this as 5.11b, which a agree with due to the pumpy nature. The natural "eye" at the bottom of the route that it was named after has since been broken.

Location

Follow the standard directions to the Statocaster Wall. This route is East (right) of the first roof system "Cutloose", and West of the Choad climbs. It has another bolted 5.11b to the right of it that I haven't yet climbed. It is the obvious over-chalked holds on the overhanging bulge. As a landmark, there was a nice rock just back from the climb to sit on while you change your shoes. =)