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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Donny Burroughs
Page Views: 2,404 total · 16/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a great warm-up for heading to Stratocaster Direct or the Choad climbs. This is an overhanging jug haul, with a few crimpy moves towards the top. There's a great rest in the middle of the route to de-pump. Be a little careful as some of the slopey feet were a little sandy. The Swain book lists this as 5.11b, which a agree with due to the pumpy nature. The natural "eye" at the bottom of the route that it was named after has since been broken.

Location

Follow the standard directions to the Statocaster Wall. This route is East (right) of the first roof system "Cutloose", and West of the Choad climbs. It has another bolted 5.11b to the right of it that I haven't yet climbed. It is the obvious over-chalked holds on the overhanging bulge. As a landmark, there was a nice rock just back from the climb to sit on while you change your shoes. =)

Protection

There are 4 bolts and the anchors (chains).

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
A great climb with good holds-- just as much fun as Cut Loose, but maybe a tad harder. Be bold at the start and either have a good spot or a great belayer!

5 bolts + chains.

edit: as of 2/11/11, this route is also equipped with mussy hooks. Nov 27, 2006
John Soares
Corvallis, Or.
  5.11a
John Soares   Corvallis, Or.
  5.11a
short, fun, bouldery route. big moves on big holds. the fixed hardware at the top is a pain to clip! dont freak and fall! Feb 4, 2008
No way is this as fun as Cut Loose, but it is worth doing. Pumpy and pretty awkward. Nov 2, 2011

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