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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This nice wall faces primarily west, but has some different aspects to it. Though it would generally get sun noon and past, depending on the season, I would imagine that one could find shade here and there beyond that hour.
The rock is mostly good and varies from thin to juggy, from slabby to steep, and has good routes across disciplines starting at about 5.11. Though most of these are sport, bring a rack for a few that are not.

Getting There

Approach as for Running Man wall, but continue on the same tier for perhaps another 100 meters, passing The Nevada Book (nice photo on line) and continuing until some nice roofs are encountered. The first of these will contain the mixed Route 'Cut Loose'

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stratocaster Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Flameblower
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Cut Loose
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 80
One-Eyed Jacks
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 34
The Deluxe
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 100
Marshall Amp
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Footloose
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 28
Stratocaster
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor)
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Flame Ranger
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 46
Stratocaster Direct
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Choad Warrior
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Purple Haze
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Pablo Diablo
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Beyond Reason
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Flameblower
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cut Loose
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
One-Eyed Jacks
 80
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Deluxe
 34
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Marshall Amp
 100
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Footloose
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stratocaster
 28
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor)
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flame Ranger
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Stratocaster Direct
 46
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Choad Warrior
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Purple Haze
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Pablo Diablo
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Beyond Reason
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Stratocaster Area »

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Ben, you should check this out while you're there. Are you gonna be back in town for New Year's? I'm planning to be at shelf for that weekend. Dec 25, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Just like to extend a big thanks to the folks who did some serious work up here recently- the new mussy hooks on the anchors look great, as well as some other care and maintenance that has been done with longevity of the cliff in mind.

Thanks! Feb 11, 2011
Josh Janes    
Anyone know what the undocumented route right of Choad Warrior is? Or the two undocumented routes between Marshall Amp and Stratocaster? Nov 17, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
The route immediately right of Choad is .12b, I think. The one immediately right of Marshall Amp is 5.11c, and the one that branches far left off of Stratocaster Direct is a .12b (i think its mellow after the Strat start, though). Nov 19, 2012
Janes is referring to the new routes that have epoxy drip patterns spread out underneath the left one with shitty homemade permamank, and the one on the right with the extra visible black chains on bolts three feet apart on 5.8 moves.

I'd be happy to out the culprits on here, but the local ethic seems to be to keep that kind of information quiet. The right route isn't bad minus the chain nonsense, the one on the left looks like a glued up pile that isn't calling my name with so many good pitches nearby.

Respect for getting the epoxy everywhere, that was a really nice touch. Green energy, recycling and wind power, spattered glue all over the place. One world. Nov 29, 2012

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