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Pablo Diablo Extension
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
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Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nevada Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pablo Diablo Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Split Lip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swedish Erotica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tier of Titans S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15852, -115.4401 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,455 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Nov 6, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This is a hard route to star. It could be great, and the start (Pablo Diablo) is excellent. The holds on the extension are sandy and there are many brittle flakes on the periphery, but the actually movement is very good and exciting. Once you reach the anchors of Pablo Diablo, veer left by throwing to the beginning of the rail system (big move, but intermediates abound). The rail itself is not very hard, just slopey and pumping, with a somewhat powerful move in the middle of the roof.
My biggest problem with the extension is the anchor placement; it is up and left of the gigantic hueco. This makes the route pretty impossible to clean and the rope rubs harshly against a lot of edges. When I did it, I climbed to the anchors and then down-climbed to back clean. It's pretty easy to do this and there really isn't a better way - I don't think the anchors could be moved to anyplace better.
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